Charting the meteoric rise and fall of America’s fastest growing retailer in the late 2000s and early 2010s, Netflix’s Trainwreck: The Cult of American Apparel dropped on the streaming site on 1 July and immediately landed in the number one spot of the top 10 movies in the UK. The documentary depicted some truly shocking scenes, like the brand’s founder, Dov Charney, repeatedly hurling verbal abuse at anyone within sight and running around completely naked while two female staff members were in the same room.
The 54-minute watch also revealed the extent of the company’s toxic work culture, with former employees sharing the contents of their ‘starter kit’ – a camera, a Blackberry phone and a vibrator – along with multiple accounts of sexual assault levied against the founder brought together in the public domain for the first time.
Such behaviour is described by these employees as an open secret, overshadowed by the immense popularity of the clothing. An answer as to how Charney was able to get away with it for so long. In hindsight, the clues were there, not least in the ad campaigns that were repeatedly critiqued for overt sexualisation, depicting scantily clad models in provocative poses. Or the fact that the media dubbed Charney the ‘King of Sleaze.’ A nickname referencing the It brand's status as spearheading the indie sleaze aesthetic, but easily applicable in alternative definitions of the term, too.
Despite never facing any allegations of abuse in a public court, Charney was fired from American Apparel in 2014 following multiple misconduct accusations. The company appointed new management before filing for bankruptcy and being sold, and while it still exists online, it is incomparable to what it was in its heyday.
However, indie sleaze is in the midst of a revival. From 2024’s Brat summer to an Oasis reunion, fashion is following suit and the brand’s legacy can’t be missed. Just look to Addison Rae, who dons an American Apparel-coded purple zip-up hoodie in the music video for ‘Headphones On’ that is full of countless other Y2K signifiers.
Yep, the clothes themselves – basics in simple silhouettes, devoid of logos and available in every colour of the rainbow at a mid-tier price point – seem to be having a resurgence and hold a nostalgic place in many people's wardrobes from that time. Cosmo UK Bookings Director, Sophie Leen, remembers wearing an American Apparel dress to her prom, while other members of the team recount living in their bodysuits or V-neck t-shirts.
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Even if you didn’t have anything from the retailer (me, despite desperately lusting after a pair of shiny black disco pants), the brand’s impact was unavoidable. There was even a celebrity fanbase! Per the documentary, Beyoncé reportedly closed down the stores late at night to allow her to shop privately, while Rihanna and Britney Spears received custom American Apparel designs.
Whether you've kept hold of pieces long buried at the back of your wardrobe, or you’re planning on turning to second-hand shopping sites for OG items, consider this your sign to dig out your disco pants and oversized sweatshirts ASAP.
5 American Apparel signatures we're predicting will make a comeback
The tennis skirt
Olivia Rodrigo wore American Apparel's blue pleated tennis skirt as recently as 2021 and it has also been spotted on other celebrities, including Zoe Kravitz, Vanessa Hudgens and Dove Cameron.
The oversized hoodie
Loved by the likes of Mary Kate Olsen and Lady Gaga at its peak, it felt like everyone had an American Apparel hoodie. The zip-up style is due for a resurgence IMO, replacing the crew-neck jumper as a basic layer of choice.
Bodysuit
Selena Gomez, Ariana Grande and Lily-Rose Depp all wore bodysuits of varying designs on rotation. We ditched these due to their impracticality (the effort of having to go to the loo...), but we could be tempted to reintroduce them into our daily 'fits for the smooth line they created, unlike tucking in bulky tops and knits to waistbands.
Disco Pants
The sheer number of advertisements for disco pants along with the endless colours they seemed to come in made these a cult buy. Plus, Kim Kardashian had a pair (hers were white, FYI). Sure, trends have steered away from skinnies for a while now, so a sharp U-turn back to the figure-hugging silhouette feels inevitable.
Cord mini skirt
A corduroy mini skirt feels like a niche item, but it was another must-have staple from American Apparel in 2009. Even Camila Mendes had one! If the tennis style isn't for you, you can't go wrong with this button-down design instead.
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Alexandria Dale is the Digital Fashion Writer at Cosmopolitan UK. Covering everything from the celebrity style moments worth knowing about to the latest fashion news, there’s nothing she loves more than finding a high street dupe of a must-have designer item. As well as discovering new brands, she’s passionate about sustainable fashion and establishing the trends that are actually worth investing in. Having worked in fashion journalism for six years, she has experience at both digital and print publications including Glamour and Ok!
