If you’re in the market for a fine hair friendly haircut, you’re in luck – inspiration has been endless this season. From the collarbone-grazing Capri cut to the choppy razor crop, short styles which make strategic use of length and texture to flatter finer strands are leading the latest hair trends.
Front and centre is the ‘beehive bob’ – a retro style made modern with soft structure and maximum volume. As seen on Millie Bobby Brown earlier this year, “it gives glamour and fullness in a way that feels effortless,” says celebrity hairstylist and afro hair expert Lorraine Dublin. And with summer (finally) in plain sight, the beehive bob is firmly back on our radars.
Ahead, discover everything you need to know about tailoring the trending cut to your hair type. Thank us later!
What is a 'beehive bob'?
If the mention of ‘beehive’ conjures images of 1960s icons and the faint scent of hairspray, you’ve got it (half) right. “The beehive bob is essentially a lifted bob with the same height through the crown,” notes Dublin, but it’s far more wearable than you might think. “What makes it work so well is a balance between structure and softness, which is especially great for finer hair types that require shape without looking over-styled.”
In simpler terms, Mason Josh, hairstylist and lead educator at Josh Wood Atelier, likens the beehive bob to the Italian bob. “It has the same movement but with more texture; you can cut it using layers to give it a bit of freedom,” while keeping the look of glamour and sophistication.
Dublin explains that a stylist would typically create the signature ‘beehive’ effect by backcombing to build subtle volume. Meanwhile, the bob itself is kept clean and blunt through the ends. “The half-up element helps to exaggerate the lift because it draws the eye upwards and creates the illusion of fuller hair. Think of it as strategic styling rather than relying on heavy products or excessive teasing,” Dublin adds.
What makes it ideal for fine, flat or thin hair?
For fine or thin hair types – or those with roots in need of boost – Dublin says that the beehive shape creates height precisely where the hair naturally collapses. “When fine hair sits too close to the scalp, this makes it appear flatter than it actually is. The beehive effect gives that airy fullness without needing thick density.”
As for the lengths, a blunt bob uses “stronger perimeter lines” (i.e. ultra-crisp, clean ends) to make the overall look appear healthier.
How much maintenance is required?
The short answer is that maintenance depends on the look you’re after. As for the long answer… Dublin explains that if the shape is cut properly, the cut itself is fairly manageable (though the crown area might need light styling each morning to revive volume). For this, “use lightweight volumising products rather than heavy creams or oils” – so as not to overload the roots and weigh them down.
Josh adds that regular trims will be on the cards, too. “With a bob haircut, you’d already find yourself needing to cut it more often. But rather than going every few months, I’d recommend booking in for a trim every six weeks – that little bit of growth can affect the sharpness of the shape.”
How to style a beehive bob
Not only is the beehive bob suitable for summer, it's arguably one of the chicest, most polished ways to keep your hair out of your face. Day-to-day styling is best tailored to your hair type:
For all hair types...
Backcombing the roots using either a dedicated backcombing brush or fine-toothed comb will deliver visible volume, and Josh adds that a strong-hold hairspray will extend its wear-time.
"But for fine or fragile textures, I'd be wary of teasing or increasing tension too much around the crown, over time," warns Dublin. "You want controlled lift, not aggressive backcombing that causes breakage."
brushworks HD Back Comb Brush
ghd The Tail Comb
For straight hair...
Dublin recommends using a lightweight mousse, velcro rollers or a large round brush to create soft volume without stiffness. "And for straighter fine hair in the summer, humidity protection is key because moisture in the air can flatten the style very quickly." Airy anti-frizz sprays will be your friend!
Boots Self Stick Hair Rollers Medium
Beauty Pie Super Healthy Hair Pro-Dry Barrel Brush
Living Proof Full Texturising Foam
Moroccanoil Frizz Shield Spray
For textured hair...
The beehive bob is particularly adaptable when you embrace any natural volume and existing fullness within the hair pattern.
"Textured hair may benefit more from defining products [again, look out for lightweight formulas] and gentle stretching techniques at the crown to maintain shape without losing texture," says Dublin.
Curlsmith Curl Defining Styling Soufflé
Aveda Be Curly Advanced Curl Enhancer Cream
For curly hair...
"If you have curlier hair, I would use a diffuser to replicate the amount of volume you'd achieve by backcombing," says Josh, with no teasing required.
TRESemmé Pro Pure Curl Define 2200 Hair Dryer with Diffuser
Dyson Supersonic Hair Dryer Curly to Coily
Beauty Assistant Urmi works across Cosmopolitan, ELLE, Harper's Bazaar, Red and Prima.
She fell into the world of beauty following a Masters in Magazine Journalism, and has been knee-deep in maximalist makeup, seasonal nail trends, and skincare myth-busting ever since. Both in and outside the office, she is best recognised by her signature red hair and elaborate set of acrylics.
