Does anyone else remember when relying on a bottle of Head & Shoulders was basically a beauty taboo? Because, same. Whether it was flakiness, dryness, or irritation, it wasn’t long ago that scalp issues were (wrongly, I might add) seen as a sign of poor hygiene or a lack of self-care. We’ve all been there, trying to hide any signs of a little dandruff of scalp flaking as if it were some sort of shameful secret.
Thankfully, things are changing. Because the truth is, that just like the skin on your face, your scalp is prone to clogged pores, oil buildup and environmental damage, so there’s no shame in needing to give it some targeted TLC. Treating scalp health like skincare also means there are suddenly a lot more products to navigate. Take scalp oils and scalp serums, for instance. Both can tackle flaking and irritation, but they aren’t exactly interchangeable.
Ahead, two experts break down what makes them different, and which one your scalp might actually be craving.
What is scalp oil?
We’ve all probably used scalp oil at some point. According to Harley Street trichologist and Nioxin ambassador Mark Blake, “they’ve been around for centuries as a traditional way to condition and nourish the scalp.”
Their main goal? “To lock in moisture, increase blood circulation, and nourish dry or scaly scalps”, says Blake. But, plot twist, whilst oils can feel moisturising, they can also mess with your scalp’s microbiome (that’s the mix of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms living on your scalp that keeps everything balanced and healthy).
“Light scalp oils, used sparingly, can offer temporary relief from tightness or dryness,” but if you go too heavy, you could be setting yourself up for more flakiness, warns trichologist Shannel Watson. “Heavy oils can trap sweat and keratin, lower oxygen, and create an environment that can worsen itching and flaking.”
So, when you do use an oil, please wash it out properly between 30 minutes to 12 hours after applying. For a seriously dry scalp, Blake recommends exfoliating first. “Dead skin cells act like little sponges,” he explains, “so they soak in the oil and prevent it from penetrating.”
Monday Muse THE GLOSS - Scalp & Hair Density Oil
For a soft, comforting oil that reduces post-wash tightness and dryness on the scalp’s surface, Watson recommends this one by Monday Muse. “Pumpkin, black cumin and onion seed are all soothing and anti-inflammatory,” she explains, whilst “bisabolol helps to calm low grade irritation.”
Price: £45
Key ingredients: Sweet almond oil, papaya seed oil, olive oil esters, pumpkin seed oil and black cumin seed oi
Usage: Use sparingly as a wash-off treatment for the roots. Leave in for 20-60 minutes, 1-3 times per week
Larry King Hair Spoilt For Choice Hair Oil 30ml
I love this lightweight hair oil. As someone with relatively fine hair, it’s one of the only oils that doesn’t leave it feeling completely greasy, and I actually often use it on my ends to tame the frizz and flyaways. I use it only occasionally on my scalp, when it feels especially dry, though the brand says that it can be used more regularly as an overnight mask if you’re more prone to dryness.
Price: £28
Key ingredients: Rosemary oil, jojoba seed oil, argan oil, squalane oil
Usage: Apply 1-3 drops overnight for deep scalp nourishment, a maximum of 1-2 times per week
What is a scalp serum?
Now, to scalp serums. They're like the cool, modern cousin of oils, coming onto the scene in the 2010s with a more sophisticated, science-led background. These water-based products are all about delivering targeted active ingredients (think caffeine, biotin, and keratin) straight to the deeper layers of your scalp without leaving behind any greasy residue.
“Think of them as skincare for the scalp,” says Watson. They’re designed to be light, absorbent, leave-on treatments that support your scalp’s overall health, rather than just sitting on top of it.
Blake agrees, explaining that scalp serums are formulated with specific ingredients that target issues like irritation, thinning hair, and flakiness. They get right to the source of the problem and work from within, so if you’re serious about maintaining a healthy scalp, this is your go-to.
Arkive Scalp Serum
Watson loves this serum for the hydration and support it provides to the scalp barrier. It’s fragrance-free too, making it ideal for sensitive scalps. “This is for anyone looking for a cleaner, calmer scalp environment to promote hair growth without heavy build up,” she says.
Price: £15
Key ingredients: Baobob oil, baobob protein, succinic acid, jojoba esters, polysaccharide blend, green tea & larch tree extract, rosebay extract
Usage: Massage a few drops into a damp, clean scalp using the pipette to part your hair.
The Steam Bar The Scalp Serum
This light, sulfate-free serum is suitable for all hair types and textures, including afro, curly, doily, wavy and straight hair. Watson loves it because it hydrates and softens the scalp without leaving heavy residue, whilst also supporting a more balanced microbiome which she says “calms reactivity and helps the scalp barrier recover.”
Price: £44
Key ingredients: Water, cetearyl ethylhexanoate, caprylic triglyceride, glycerin, inulin
Usage: Apply 2-3 drops directly onto the scalp, twice a week or as needed
NIOXIN Night Density Rescue Serum Thickening Serum for Optimised Hair Growth 70ml
“This serum is perfect for people with thinning hair,” says Blake. That’s because it’s designed for nighttime use; the time when the body repairs itself. “The blend of antioxidants helps to neutralise free radicals on the scalp surface which improves both the quality and density of the hair,” he explains. It’s for women of all ages, but particularly well suited for those suffering with thinning hair during menopause.
Price: £60.80
Key ingredients: Ginger, lauric acid, caffeine
Usage: 2-4 drops directly onto the scalp, daily
Head & Shoulders DermaXPro Instant Moisturiser Scalp Serum 145ml with Niacinamide and Ceramide Complex for a Dry, Tight Scalp. Leave-In Serum with Lightweight Feel, Helps to Boost Scalp Moisture
Head & Shoulders really is the OG when it comes to scalp care. This refreshingly affordable product is lightweight and non greasy, and is built to both moisturise your scalp and balance your microbiome. “Think of it as the equivalent of the night cream you apply to slow skin ageing,” says Blake.
Price: £9.99
Key ingredients: Water, niacinamide, caffeine
Usage: Up to twice daily
What are the main differences between scalp oils and scalp serums?
Whilst both scalp oils and serums can help with dryness and irritation, that’s pretty much where their similarities end. Here’s what you need to know:
Scalp Oils: Oils provide protection and moisture on the surface. They’re a lipid-based product perfect for reducing friction (especially on tight curls) and helping with dry scalps, but if you’re looking to nourish your scalp internally and tackle things like inflammation or hair thinning, Blake says you’ll want to go straight for a serum.
Scalp Serums: These are the heavy-hitters for treating scalp concerns. Lightweight, often water-based, and formulated with active ingredients to support scalp health, “they’re designed to support your scalp’s ecosystem,” says Watson, “calming inflammation, rebalance oil buildup, and supporting healthier hair growth cycles.” Plus, unlike oils, they won’t weigh your scalp down or leave it feeling greasy.
Should you use a scalp oil or scalp serum?
So, should you be team oil or team serum? “For those with scaly scalps needing deep nourishment, or who want extra conditioning for the hair itself, a scalp oil can work,” says Blake. Just note that this should be “a carefully chosen, light formula, used sparingly and occasionally as a pre-shampoo treatment,” Watson reminds us. For regular, ongoing scalp care, she prefers “a microbiome supportive hair serum,” which is lighter and designed to stay on the scalp.
If you’ve got an oily or flake-prone scalp, or you’re dealing with seborrhoeic dermatitis, both experts say scalp oils are a no-go. “Adding oil on top of scaliness or sebum will only laminate the problematic bacterial film on the scalp,” says Watson. Instead, she suggests reaching for a “pH controlled serum containing a sebum regulator and anti malassezia agent.”
And for sensitive scalps? “Light serums with barrier supportive ingredients are best,” says Watson. “Look for a product with niacinamide, inulin and ceramides in a gentle, fragrance-light base.”
Can you use scalp oils and serums daily?
When it comes to how often you should be using these products, the rules for oils and serums are different. As Watson puts it: “Leaving heavy oils on the scalp for days, sleeping in thick growth oils or applying them daily at the roots encourages persistent films, dysbiosis and low grade inflammation.” Think once or twice a week, max.
Serums have more flexibility, with some lightweight formulas designed for daily use. Blake suggests making them part of your bedtime line-up. “Your body repairs itself whilst it’s asleep, so keep your serum next to your toothbrush as a daily reminder.”
If your serum contains stronger actives, like salicylic acid, you’ll want to hold back a bit. Two to three times a week is plenty. And, of course, listen to your scalp. As Watson reminds us, “if you notice any redness, burning or increased skin shedding then stop using the product.”
Final verdict:
If you’re still deciding between the two, our experts recommend thinking about the oiliness and sensitivity of your scalp. “If you have an oily or flake prone scalp, avoid scalp oils altogether,” says Watson, who says your scalp will respond far better to a targeted serum. Similarly, if you have a sensitive scalp, a light serum with barrier supportive ingredients will be a much safer bet.
But if you’re just looking for some extra comfort or conditioning for your hair itself, then Blake says an oil can work for you. “Look for oils containing coconut, rosemary, mint or jojoba oil,” he says.
