When it comes to nails, the Princess of Wales seems to have mastered both ends of the spectrum. On the one hand (quite literally), there's the immaculate, barely-there perfection of a Japanese manicure that she wears most days; on the other, she's been spotted sporting coloured polish that we're going to assume was applied using the Russian nail technique – because surely only the best will do when you're dealing with royal talons. But which one reigns supreme?
While both are devoted to making your nails look exceptionally polished (how many nail puns can one slip in), their methods – and results – are rather different. Here's how the Russian and Japanese manicures compare, and how to work out which is right for you.
What is the Japanese manicure?
The Japanese manicure is all about making your natural nails look exceptional, without actually putting any polish on them. It's a multi-step treatment focused on nourishing and strengthening nails. Session and celebrity manicurist Sophia Stylianou tells us that "the treatment is designed to strengthen and improve the health of your nails using ingredients like beeswax and sea minerals." UV lamps, acetone soak-offs be gone!
"Instead, the nails are gently buffed to create a smooth, glossy finish that looks naturally shiny and healthy," Sophia adds.
But the appeal isn't purely aesthetic. The treatment is also designed to improve the condition of the nail itself. "One of the biggest benefits is that it nourishes and strengthens the natural nail without using harsh chemicals. The beeswax and mineral paste help restore moisture, reduce peeling, and improve overall nail condition," says Sophia.
In other words, if your nails have been through the gel-and-remove-and-repeat cycle and are now feeling a little worse for wear, a Japanese mani is basically a wellness retreat for your fingertips.
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And not only that, it's refreshingly low-maintenance. The shine can last for up to two weeks, and keeping things looking good afterwards requires little more than regular cuticle oil. Because there's no polish involved, there's no chipping to contend with and no obvious regrowth either. Hurrah!
In short, the Japanese manicure is nail care disguised as a high-shine mani. Work smarter, not harder, folks.
What is the Russian manicure?
If the Japanese manicure is all about embracing your natural nails, the Russian manicure is about making every millimetre of them look meticulously considered. Precision, precision and a lil more precision for good measure.
Cosmopolitan UK spoke to Juanita Huber-Millet, founder and creative director of Townhouse, to get the lowdown.
"A Russian manicure or pedicure is known for its highly detailed approach to cuticle work," Juanita says. "Traditionally, it uses an e-file to carefully refine the cuticle area and create a very clean, precise nail plate." Essentially, it's all in the prep.
The reason for all that meticulous cuticle work? Getting your polish as close to the base of the nail as possible, creating an exceptionally crisp finish. "The goal is to allow colour to be applied as close to the cuticle as possible, giving that ultra-neat, long-lasting finish that grows out seamlessly."
And that's the key distinction between a Russian manicure and your standard gel or BIAB appointment. The technique isn't necessarily defined by what goes on your nails, but by the amount of attention paid to what's happening beforehand. "With Russian techniques, there’s a much stronger focus on detailed cuticle work before any product is applied," Juanita explains. Townhouse, she adds, prefers this gentler philosophy: "We focus on expert manual cuticle work, without the use of drills. It’s about technique and control, rather than relying on tools."
The result is a cleaner, more refined nail bed that prioritises nail health and safety – not just aesthetics.
And not only that, but when the preparation is done correctly, it can help extend the life of your manicure, too. "The regrowth is less noticeable, and the overall look stays polished for longer," Juanita says.
Which, frankly, is music to the ears of anyone who considers visible regrowth a personal affront... (It's me, hi, I'm the person who considers visible regrowth a personal affront, it's me.)
There is, however, one important caveat: this is not a technique to DIY after watching one TikTok. "It’s a technique that requires a high level of skill and should always be carried out by a trained professional," says Juanita.
So, while the Russian manicure can deliver that ultra-defined, salon-perfect finish, the quality of the result – and the health of your nails – depends heavily on who's wielding the tools.
In short, if you're looking for a coloured gel manicure that not only lasts and looks aesthetic but prioritises nail health, too, the Russian nail technique is for you. If your nails are desperate for a breather and you're looking to ditch the gels and colour altogether, seek out a Japanese manicure.
Manis to rival that of the Princess of Wales, incoming!
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Lia Mappoura (she/her) is the Beauty Writer at Cosmopolitan UK, with over four years of experience reporting across the brand's print, social, video and digital platforms. Lia covers everything from emerging trend analysis to viral celebrity hair and makeup moments, making her an expert at spotting the season’s next big beauty look (before it takes over social media feeds).
In 2025, she was named The Rising Media Star at the Love Perfume Awards with The Perfume Shop, recognised for her outstanding digital fragrance content and for building genuine authority within the space. She is passionate about challenging outdated beauty stereotypes, championing inclusive representation in beauty, and educating readers on the trends, products and conversations shaping the industry today. Follow her on Instagram or find her on LinkedIn.
