So you’ve treated yourself to a manicure, and now you can’t stop looking at your hands. Shiny new nails wink back at you with every flick of the fingers, but then – gasp! – is that a peeling edge? After spending hours in the salon, or even painting them your nails yourself, a peel or chip is less than ideal. Appearance aside, peeling can damage your natural nails, too – and don’t even get us started on the sensory overload of getting a peeled edge caught in your hair.
Luckily, as a qualified nail artist and beauty editor with lots of nail expert friends, I'm on hand to help with all your nail needs when it comes to gel polish and peeling.
Why does gel nail polish peel?
Firstly, while it’s certainly easier on the ol’ bank balance to book the cheapest manicure you can, you should always opt for a good quality service with fully qualified and experienced technicians. The biggest reason for peeling is poor application: thick coats, not giving enough cure time, not removing the cuticle properly and not using base or top coats are all ingredients for disaster.
If it looks like your nail tech is going in too heavy and thick, or if you feel like they’re rushing the cure time, don’t be afraid to advocate for yourself. Not only do you risk peeling in these situations, but you risk developing allergies if the application process is rushed. But I get it, even as a nail tech myself, I feel super awkward when telling someone that I want things done a certain way. You just have to remember: you’re paying for this service, and the nail tech wants you to be happy.
It’s not all on the nail artist, though. Before your appointment even begins, make sure your nails are clean and dry. Moisture from water, oils or creams, as well as dirt, will all affect your manicure’s longevity. Ifra Siddique, Product and Scientific Director at The GelBottle Inc, says your technician should cleanse and dehydrate each nail before polish application, but you should always turn up to your appointment with clean hands too.
“Everyday habits like picking, excessive water exposure, or using your nails as tools can also cause lifting,” says Bio Sculpture ambassador and celebrity nail artist, Julia Diogo.
How can I prevent my gel manicure from peeling?
To stop your mani from peeling off, proper prep is your best friend. You might even find yourself spending more time on the prep than the polish, and that’s totally fine. “You need to cleanse, buff, dehydrate and remove cuticles thoroughly,” confirms Siddique. “Use thin, even layers and always use the recommended lamp and curing times.” This may sound trivial, but if you aren’t using the right lamp for the product, your polish might be uncured underneath, even if it feels hard on top.
If you really struggle with peeling but you feel like you’ve done everything right, try using a builder gel, which is also called “Builder In A Bottle” or “BIAB”. “Using BIAB as a base layer strengthens nails and provides extra adhesion, reducing the risk of peeling,” says Siddique.
Aftercare is also key, says Diogo: “After application, avoid harsh chemicals or long soaks in hot water and keep nails hydrated with cuticle oil.”
Why is peeling bad for my nails?
“Peeling polish may seem harmless, but it can seriously damage your nails,” warns Lynn Mason, nail expert at Mavala UK. “When you peel your polish, you strip away layers of the nail plate, leading to brittleness, splitting, and long-term weakening.” To keep your nails feeling healthy, Mason says you should avoid picking at all costs, use gentle removers and techniques where you can, and give your nails a break between manicures.
