When it comes to choosing the perfect hair colour, the right shade can enhance your complexion, frame your features, and even make your skin appear more radiant. But make the wrong choice* and it can leave you looking washed out, tired, or battling high-maintenance upkeep.
*Though, to note, there is never really any 'wrong' choice when it comes to picking the hair colour for you. Here at Cosmo, we encourage our readers to make the beauty decisions that make them feel most confident – don't subscribe to the idea of a look just because it's trending or colour theory says so!
That said, if you do want to decode the world of tones, balayages and blends, we asked Micky Kastly, hairstylist and founder of Blown London, to share her insider rules for finding your most suited match.
"Chocolates, caramels, chestnut browns, taupes or honeys? A creamy vanilla blonde for a lighter skin tone? Or a hit honey brown balayage to match your golden medium complexion?" says Micky. "Here's some advice and quick tips on what hair colour suits which complexion and skin tone – and the best hair colours, tones and blends that really will make your skin tone glow."
For lighter skin tones
If your skin is on the paler side, Micky recommends leaning into cooler blends: "The lighter the skin, the ashier the hair colour. For super blondes, you’re looking at going for more ash/cool blends and shades of hair like a cool ash blonde, a vanilla blonde or sandy beige blonde, which is more or less a golden ash blonde."
But don't think this rule applies only to blondes. Brunettes with fair skin can shine just as brightly! "The same rocks for darker shades with lighter skin tones – keeping the hair slightly ash and going for a mocha mushroom brown will bring out the glow and radiance," Micky says.
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The key takeaway: icy tones and muted shades balance fair skin and help prevent the hair from overpowering delicate complexions.
For medium skin tones
Golden, olive, or slightly warmer undertones open the door to a wide spectrum of rich, warm hues. "Medium skin tones and complexions suit best a slight undertone of warmth in hair colour," Micky explains. "Think honeys, caramels, rich chocolates, reds or coppers – and red undertone chocolate brunette dreams or an elegant peanut butter or crimson."
If you’re not ready to commit to full-on warmth, Micky suggests a subtle shimmer: "Adding a touch of warmth in hair colour shades like richer taupes, aubergines, brondes or chestnuts are the perfect colour match to medium warmer skin tones."
The verdict? Medium complexions radiate with depth, richness and soft warmth – avoid anything too flat or ashy.
For darker skin tones
When it comes to deeper complexions, Micky advises embracing richness and elegance. "Darker skin tones and complexions really deserve absolute richness and elegance – think tones, blends and colour pops rather than the complete opposite in brightness to what your natural hair colour would be."
Super light shades can be striking but tend to demand a lot of maintenance. Instead, Micky suggests working with your skin tone. "The richer hair colours like a mystic jet black, espresso brown or a berry-rich brunette brown can really boost the hair tones and perk up the skin’s natural radiance.
"The lighter the hair on a darker complexion, the more maintenance and colour top-ups it takes. Letting your darker complexion work with more sun-kissed, healthy blends and darker honey blondes of hair colour creates a more natural colour pop rather than a severe contrast once the brassiness kicks in," she says.
However, if you're after something a little more low-maintenance, Micky advises sticking with a more natural look. "Keeping your hair more neutrally coloured – like a few tones, pieces, babylights, lights throughout the hair or the perfect honey ombré balayage – blends out and grows out super chic, rather than a definitive root line. The more natural the colour pop for darker skin, the longer the hair colour lasts."
The three rules to remember
Light skin tones: Cooler, ash-based blondes and soft mocha browns bring out radiance.
Medium skin tones: Warmth is your friend – caramels, chocolates, chestnuts, and aubergines add depth.
Dark skin tones: Rich, elegant shades like espresso and berry brunettes shine brightest, with balayage or highlights for a natural glow.
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Lia Mappoura (she/her) is the Beauty Writer at Cosmopolitan UK, with over four years of experience reporting across the brand's print, social, video and digital platforms. Lia covers everything from emerging trend analysis to viral celebrity hair and makeup moments, making her an expert at spotting the season’s next big beauty look (before it takes over social media feeds).
In 2025, she was named The Rising Media Star at the Love Perfume Awards with The Perfume Shop, recognised for her outstanding digital fragrance content and for building genuine authority within the space. She is passionate about challenging outdated beauty stereotypes, championing inclusive representation in beauty, and educating readers on the trends, products and conversations shaping the industry today. Follow her on Instagram or find her on LinkedIn.
