Here at Cosmo, we're not believers in overflowing medicine cabinets or 12-step routines. You don’t need a bunch of different products for every possible skin concern—just a handful that actually work for your skin, whether that’s a $6 cleanser or a $60 serum. And for the most part, sticking to a consistent, year-round skincare routine is the best way to keep your complexion happy. But there is one season that calls for a few strategic swaps: summer.
No matter your skin type—oily, dry, combo, or acne-prone—your skin’s needs change in the summer. Heat and humidity mean more sweat and oil production, while increased UV exposure can make certain active ingredients more irritating or leave your skin more vulnerable to sun damage. To understand the tweaks we should be making, I hit up board-certified dermatologist Shereene Idriss, MD, for all her summer skincare expertise.
The best summer skincare swaps if you have oily skin
Oily skin in the summer can sometimes feel as greasy as the pan that cooked your breakfast. Shiny, sweaty, and probs more irritable than usual, if you have excess sebum come this time of year, great news: you can and should strip it all the way back.
According to Dr. Idriss, “If you have oily skin, you can most definitely cut down on steps in your routine to avoid going overboard and layering too many products.” And in particular parts of the world, your oily skin can work in your favor. “In a humid climate specifically, your skin naturally retains more moisture, so in the mornings, you can get away with just one step—sunscreen,” she says. Less money on your beauty regimen? We are sold.
If you’re finding the shine breakthrough a little too much, though, you can minimize it by swapping your cleanser. “If you’re an oily slick ball in the summer, a salicylic acid cleanser at night is a great addition for oily skin, as it helps reduce sebum production and keep pores clear,” says Dr. Idriss. “Use it up to three times a week to avoid over-exfoliating. On alternate nights, a sulfur cleanser is a gentle yet effective option to help control oil while also soothing redness and inflammation.”
The best summer skincare swaps if you have dry skin
Yes, dry skin is particularly annoying during the winter months, but summer dryness has its own problems that have to be countered, such as air conditioning and excess sun exposure. But the thing that’ll determine the skin swaps you make will be the environment you find yourself in.
“Depending on your climate, you may not need to layer as much hydration in the hotter months as you do in winter,” Dr. Idriss says. “Instead of piling on a hydrating mist, essence, serum, moisturizer, and sunscreen, you can pare down your routine. In humid climates, dry skin can hold onto moisture more easily, so a lightweight serum, moisturizer, and sunscreen would be enough to keep your skin balanced without feeling overloaded. You can also cut back exfoliation from three to four times a week to one to two times a week.”
The best summer skincare swaps if you have acne-prone skin
With acne-prone skin, it’s really important to maintain as much consistency as possible with your routines. But, depending on how oily or dry your skin is, there are a couple of swaps to help to prevent breakouts. “If you’re acne-prone, you’re likely on the oily side, making salicylic acid a great option to keep pores clear and control breakouts. However, if your skin leans more dry, glycolic acid is a better choice, as it exfoliates while also boosting hydration and improving skin texture.” We also love mandelic acid for gently exfoliating acne-prone skin two to three times per week.
The best summer skincare swaps if you have sensitive skin
Does the heat leave your skin more irritated than usual? Swapping out your actives for soothing ingredients is the key to calm. “If your skin is sensitive or easily irritated, summer is all about soothing, strengthening, and protecting your barrier. Look for ingredients like niacinamide to calm inflammation and Centella asiatica to soothe and repair,” says Dr. Idriss.
A word on summer retinol use
Like puppies, retinoids (such as retinal and retinol) aren’t just for Christmas; they are year-round. It’s probably one of the biggest misconceptions in skincare that you shouldn’t use retinoids when it’s sunny. “This is a myth that has been perpetuated,” Dr. Idriss says, “I mean, think about it, what about the places where it’s summer all year round?”
The truth is that, yes, vitamin A products can make your skin more sensitive to the sun, but that doesn’t mean you have to avoid using them as soon as sunnier days approach. “You can absolutely use retinoids in the summer; you just have to be smart about them. You need to be extra diligent with sunscreen, which, let’s be real, you should be anyway.” Sound advice. Instead of dropping retinoids altogether, if you are an outdoorsy, beachy girl, Dr. Idriss recommends cutting back the frequency of use. “And if you’re more sensitive, always pair your retinoid with a moisturizer to buffer your skin and keep your skin barrier happy,” she advises. Retinoids are also always best used at night to minimize irritation with sun exposure.
Meet the expert
Shereene Idriss, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Idriss Dermatology and Dr. Idriss Skincare. She is also Cosmo UK’s contributing skin expert, whom we turn to for all of our hard-hitting skin questions.
Keeks Reid is the Beauty Director at Cosmopolitan UK. While she loves all things beauty, Keeks is a hair fanatic through and through. She started her career in beauty journalism in 2013 as editorial assistant at Blackhair and Hair magazines working her way to Acting Editor of Blackhair magazine at 23 years old. She spent much of her career working in trade hairdressing media at Hairdressers Journal, Salon International and the British Hairdressing Awards. Which is why she is a regular contributor to Cosmo's Curl Up franchise. Now, alongside her Cosmo work, she presents, creates content on social media and works with a range of beauty companies; from magazines and websites to beauty brands and salons.
