In the midst of the pandemic, I became obsessed with a French skincare brand called Biologique Recherche. Beauty editors—now my peers but once my guiding light on all things skincare—raved about the brand, mostly their famed exfoliant, Lotion P50. Every in-the-know person has been dabbing their face with this potent liquid for decades. I had to get my hands on it.
I ordered it from a random spa’s website (the only way to get it at the time), researching for days which formula to get. There are five types of P50 depending on your skin type, sensitivity, and goals, so you don’t just grab one and go. Once I made my choice (P50V, for reference), I dabbed my face with a P50-soaked cotton round at least twice a week for months. At first, my skin suffered: tightness, irritation, peeling. But as my skin became accustomed to its strength, my uneven skin texture began to dissipate, and my acne scars faded.
But as there’s so much fanfare around the benefits of P50, there’s a lot you should know about it before you put it on your own face. You might be wondering: Which type should you get? What’s the strongest P50? How do you use P50? Is it even good for my skin type? For this reason, it was only available in spas for a long time. But the brand just launched into Nordstrom—a win for us, but it means you’ll want to read up a bit before you start coating your face in the strong exfoliant.
To explain it all, Cosmo tapped an aesthetician to create a full guide to Biologique Recherche Lotion P50. It covers all things P50, including how it works, the benefits of using it, and the different versions you can try.
How does P50 work?
Even though Biologique Recherche calls P50 a lotion, it’s really an exfoliating toner that comes in six different liquid formulas for a mix of skin types and concerns (though they all work pretty similarly). All versions of P50 help break down dead skin cells, unclog pores, enhance skin-cell turnover, and hydrate and balance your skin barrier, depending on which formula you try. Also cool: P50 helps boost the efficacy of whatever essences, serums, and creams you layer on top, says aesthetician Aida Bicaj.
But all of these benefits are largely why it’s so strong, which is why it’s so important to choose the right P50 for you.
What are the different types of Biologique Recherche P50 lotions?
FYI: The “original” P50 formula, called P50 1970, isn’t available anymore. It was extremely strong, hence how the formula got its reputation for being very intense on skin. This is because it contained phenol, a powerful exfoliator that isn’t often found OTC these days. But there are a whopping five other types of P50 to choose from still:
P50
Biologique Recherche launched this one later without phenol for those who didn’t want such a strong antiseptic on their skin. Now, it’s the base formula that works for a variety of skin types. It’s definitely still potent, but it’s good for oily, acne-prone, and “normal” skin that doesn’t get sensitive or splotchy too easily. It’s packed with ingredients to help slough away dead skin (like lactic acid, malic acid, and gluconalactone), treat acne (salicylic acid and sulfur), and brighten hyperpigmentation (niacinamide).
Who it’s for: Oily, acne-prone skin types that aren’t prone to sensitivity
P50V
P50V is the brand’s “medium” strength formula. In addition to AHAs, BHAs, and PHAs—aka all of the smoothing and unclogging acids—it also includes vitamins (where the “V” comes from). There’s niacinamide (aka vitamin B3) to brighten skin, horseradish root extract to purify, and yeast extract to moisturize a little. Think of it as the more conditioning cousin to P50.
Who it’s for: “Normal” to oily skin types; although it’s not as sensitizing as P50, it definitely still is too strong for anyone who is prone to dryness or irritation
P50T
Meant to exfoliate and “balance” skin, P50T is the brand’s suggestion for first-time users or those who don’t exfoliate regularly. It’s the gentlest option, with only lactic acid as the main AHA in the formula, but the rest of the composition is all about hydrating and soothing skin. There’s niacinamide, glycerin, urea, allantoin, and amino acids—all anti-inflammatory ingredients to help your skin tolerate the exfoliation better (hence the T, for “tolerance”).
Who it’s for: First-time exfoliant users, very dry to normal skin
P50W
Before P50T, the gentlest version of P50 was P50W, which combined a mix of lactic and malic acids with all those same soothing ingredients (allantoin, glycerin, urea, niacinamide). This makes it a great pick for those with sensitive skin who want to “move up” to a slightly stronger exfoliant. Say, you used up a whole bottle of P50T (or another gentle exfoliant) and want something gentle with a bit more strength.
Who it’s for: Dry to oily skin types who are prone to sensitivity
P50 Pigm 400
This version is designed specifically for people dealing with hyperpigmentation, like dark spots or melasma. It’s gentler than the OG P50 but still effectively exfoliates dead skin cells to even out your skin tone and help regulate melanin synthesis, says Bicaj.
Who it’s for: Those looking to fade existing dark spots and prevent new ones from forming
Where can I buy P50?
Finally, P50 (and all of Biologique Recherche’s most popular products) are sold at Nordstrom. For the longest time, the only way to get P50 was through an authorized retailer, which typically meant at spas either in-person or online. But now, our favorite French skincare can be bundled with your little black dress and new heels.
How much does Biologique Recherche P50 cost?
It’s not exactly cheap. Biologique Recherche P50 costs $45 for a 1.7 oz. bottle, $100 for a 5.1 oz. bottle, and $155 for an 8.4 oz. bottle. My rec is to always opt for the smallest bottle first, both to test out the formula on your skin, but also in the event you choose to move up in strength after finishing the whole container.
Is there anyone who shouldn’t use P50?
Anyone using retinol should avoid all versions of P50, since the two can’t be used at the same time, says Bicaj. (Too many active ingredients = a recipe for irritated, angry skin.) "You should also avoid using P50 for at least one week after a chemical peel or laser treatment," she adds. Another reason to lay off P50? If you’re spending a lot of time outside, since the acids in P50 can make skin more sensitive to the sun.
How do I use P50?
The goal is to apply P50 twice daily all over your face, neck, and chest after cleansing, and before your serums and moisturizers, says Bicaj—but, very important note, you’ll need to work up to that frequency, and not every skin type will be able to handle it.
During your first week of using P50, pre-moisten a gauze pad or cotton round with water first (it will help slightly dilute the P50 to reduce any risk of initial irritation), then saturate the pad with P50 and press it into your skin using gentle upward motions, says Bicaj. After a few weeks of using it twice a day, try skipping the pre-moisten and just saturate the pad with P50 and do your thing.
It’s worth noting that a little temporary redness and tingling when you first start using P50 is normal, but if your skin looks or feels irritated for a prolonged period of time, you should stop using P50 ASAP. And be aware: If you’re working with hypersensitive skin or rosacea, you may only be able to tolerate the gentlest version once a day, or once every other day max.
Is P50 worth it?
I’ve tried a lot of exfoliating toners in the past, and I can honestly say that I've never seen results like I do from P50. After using P50 for about a month, my skin looked smoother, brighter, and noticeably less congested (my naturally oily skin is prone to blackheads). It’s one of those things that once you start using it, you can’t really go back, hence the cult-like following.
And I totally get that $100+ is a lot to shell out for a toner, or any skincare product for that matter, but P50 is so much more than that IMO. Think of it like a pro facial in a bottle—it does it all and leaves your skin freaking glowing. That’s not to say you can’t get somewhat similar results by using a mix of other toners, but if you can afford it, I’d recommend giving this one a try first.
Meet the expert:
- Aida Bicaj is a licensed aesthetician with her own studio in New York where she’s treated patients for more than three decades.
Why trust Cosmopolitan?
Beth Gillette is the beauty editor at Cosmopolitan with eight years of experience researching, writing, and editing hair, makeup, nail, and fragrance stories.
Lauren Balsamo is Cosmopolitan’s beauty director and has reported on skincare for the site and print magazine for more than 13 years.
Beth Gillette is the beauty editor at Cosmopolitan, where she covers skincare, makeup, hair, nails, and more across digital and print. She can generally be found in bright eyeshadow furiously typing her latest feature or hemming and hawing about a new product you "have to try." Prior to Cosmopolitan, she wrote and edited beauty content as an Editor at The Everygirl for four years. Follow her on Instagram for makeup selfies and a new hair 'do every few months.
Lauren Balsamo is the beauty director at Cosmopolitan where she writes, edits, and produces all types of beauty content—from product reviews to personal essays and trend reports. She has covered beauty for more than a decade at Cosmopolitan. Follow her on Instagram.
