There’s no doubt you’ll have heard of the French Alps, but it’s less likely that you’ll have heard of Megève. A purpose-built ski resort village, it’s tucked within the dramatic Mont Blanc mountain range. It was conceived in the 1920s by the Rothschild family after they grew tired with St. Moritz, and while it has maintained its reputation as a world-class ski resort, there’s so much more this quaint, Southeastern French town has to offer.
To get there from London, fly into Geneva, Switzerland (flights go from Heathrow, Gatwick, City, Luton, Stansted and Southend, all taking under two hours). Megève is then a one hour drive from the airport, with plenty of dramatic mountain views to take in along the way.
Where to stay in Megève
We headed to the M de Megève, a five-star hotel that is a member of the prestigious Small Luxury Hotels of the World (SLH) club. This boutique, chalet-style property has 42 rooms and suites, allowing it to feel cosy yet chic. Rooms are decked out in natural wood, with adjustable mood lighting and private balconies which overlook the mountains.
What to do in Megève
Let me preface this by saying I had never skied before. This trip was a baptism by fire — well, at least that was what I had prepared myself for. The M de Megève hotel is located only 100m from the Chamois ski lifts, and the concierge helpfully arranged passes, a ski lesson and rental gear from ProRide nearby. The morning of the big day, we got kitted out by friendly staff before being collected by our instructor Baptiste. Despite our nerves, he could not have been more patient or professional while he taught fully grown adults on the infant slope, with small children and their parents frequently whizzing by.
After two hours with Baptiste we had mastered the basics — standing, walking, skiing and even turning! We became well acquainted with the ‘magic carpet’ and while we were never going to make it to the highest point of the mountain, the children's slope was conveniently located next to the Relais des Fermes restaurant. Perched at an altitude of 1300m, we sat outside on deckchairs and soaked up the sunshine rays, with a hard-earned beer in hand.
The town is also a hotspot for shopping. While you can certainly purchase everything you might need for outdoor winter sports, it’s also home to designer shops including the likes of Dior, Moncler and Zegna. There are plenty of outlet stores, and I had to stop myself from permanently damaging my credit score in a vintage handbag shop appropriately named I Have A Dream (the only place I can afford archival Chanel is in my head, after all).
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Art, furniture and books also feature in abundance — Scarlett was the standout, however. This book shop, which also has posts in Saint-Tropez and Saint-Remy de Provence, was filled from floor to ceiling with giant Assouline coffee table titles, some so large they needed their own standing display posts. Shearling-covered chairs and stone floors were in keeping with the ski-chic aesthetic, and you could easily lose an afternoon flicking through the many fashion, design and culture titles.
For the ultimate in relaxation, consider the Clarins spa at the M de Megève a one-stop shop. Newly renovated, the space spans 300m² in the tranquil basement of the property and offers a swimming pool, jacuzzi, sauna and hammam steam room. There’s even a double treatment room to enjoy couple’s massages — the perfect antidote after a tough morning of skiing. And, for the fitness fanatics, there's also a small yet functional gym to get in shape for the slopes…
Finally, the landscape of Megève is ripe for hiking. As we visited towards the end of the ski season, the weather was perfect for the Calvaire nature trail. A loop starting from the centre of the village, it lasts just over an hour and allows for picturesque views.
Where to eat and drink in Megève
The M de Megève has two restaurants — Le Bistrot du M, open for breakfast, lunch, dinner and snacking, and Les Grands Crus de Fondues, open in winter for, you guessed it, fondue. Every meal at the hotel was excellent, from breakfast-buffet fruit and pastries to hearty evening meals of roast chicken and risotto. The hotel bar also features a large open fire, perfect for sipping spritzs and red wine next to.
Elsewhere we were charmed by La Petite Crêperie, a third-generation family owned restaurant that looks like it belongs in a toy town. The menu includes classic options like lemon and sugar or Nutella, or more filling creations with eggs, ham, cheese, etcetera.
A visit to the Boulangerie Le Montagnard is a must. This traditional french bakery-patisserie was piled high with bread, cakes and sandwiches — the individual tarte tatin was a highlight.
If you’re looking for a night on the town, the Club Les 5 Rues is a live music venue in the centre that stays open until 2am. Despite the sign outside proclaiming ‘jazz’ it features a whole host of acts — a Stereophonics cover band had the packed out room up on their feet dancing and singing when we visited. It serves signature cocktails (such as the Megève Mule) alongside classic favourites.
Prices start at €550 per night at M de Megève
Rebecca Jane Hill is the Senior Fashion Editor at Cosmopolitan UK. She has previously contributed to publications including Vogue, Elle, Marie Claire, Harper’s Bazaar, Refinery29, The Face, Glamour and Stylist. She started her own magazine, Sister, in 2012 whilst at university. Focused around feminism, fashion and culture, it went on to produce 12 globally stocked print issues, as well as countless events and partnerships. She closed the magazine in 2023.
Rebecca has been an associate lecturer at London College of Fashion since 2018, where she teaches on the Fashion Journalism course. She is a passionate second-hand shopper and is constantly on the lookout for new design talent.
