To the uninitiated, dermaplaning can seem a little scary. Someone taking a razor blade to your face in the name of beauty - understandably daunting. But then, when you have it, you kind of never want to turn back, because, well, welcome to the smoothest, softest skin ever... Ok, let us fill you in.
Previously confined to the walls of your fave beauty clinics, now more people are trying the technique at home too - but is it wise? Given you're using a blade on your precious face, there are a few things to note if you are going to work it into your skincare routine to keep your face, safe. "Dermaplaning is a brilliant treatment, but there are some risks and possible complications, especially for people of certain skin types," says Dr Ifeoma Ejikeme, Skin Expert and Founder of Adonia Medical Clinic.
What are the pros and cons? Is it painful and do we need to hide out for a bit while our face settles? A real key piece of info as WFH situs slip away into a distant memory. Oh and, crucially, does razoring your face make your hair grow back thicker?
Here's everything you need to know before taking the plunge…
What is dermaplaning?
Contrary to popular belief, dermaplaning isn’t actually a hair-removal method: although the elimination of all that fluffy peach fuzz is a welcome side-effect for some people. "One of the most important things to note is that dermaplaning is different to facial shaving," says Dr Ejikeme. "Dermaplaning is done with a surgical blade and really should only be ever done with a professional who has been specifically trained to use it and the pre-care and after-care can be administered correctly."
"What I’m seeing a lot on the internet is facial shaving and some dermaplanning, and I really would advise you to avoid Dermaplanning at home," she adds.
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If you go to a clinic for a dermaplaning treatment, it will likely involve using “a surgical scalpel blade as an exfoliating technique” explains Harley Street-based medical doctor Dr. David Jack, who offers dermaplaning as part of his cult Egyptian Facial. “Also known as ‘skin scraping’, it removes part of the upper layer of dead cells on the surface of the skin (the epidermis), with the additional benefit of removing fine vellus hairs.”
What are the benefits?
“Firstly, a dermaplaning treatment can improve the surface texture and appearance of the skin by removing some of the dull upper layers,” says Dr. Jack. “In addition, removal of the fine hairs gives a more polished appearance.”
And that’s not all: dermaplaning could also help your serum to work harder. “By removing the top layers of dead cells, which form a barrier to penetration of active skincare products, it allows them to travel deeper into the skin to increase their effectiveness,” Dr. Jack explains.
Finally, perhaps the mot instantaneous benefit of a dermaplaning treatment is the way in which your make-up applies a couple of days afterwards. With the skin completely smooth and well exfoliated, foundation and other base products will apply more seamlessly than ever before.
Does dermaplaning involve downtime?
Generally speaking, there’s no downtime involved in a dermaplaning treatment – however, you will need to treat your fresh new complexion with utmost care. Dr. Jack advises keeping the skin clean and using a touch more serum than usual, to take advantage of the increased penetration – a good vitamin C or hyaluronic acid is ideal. And as always, load up on SPF to prevent sun damage.
“Side effects are very rare and are generally limited to a little redness directly after the procedure and very mild dryness,” he says. “If the dermaplaning is done in combination with a peel, then the dryness can be more significant, depending on the acid used.”
Is dermaplaning painful?
While the concept might sound hairy, rest assured that dermaplaning is an entirely pain-free procedure. “You will experience a mild scraping sensation, but it is very comfortable,” confirms Dr. Jack.
Who will benefit from dermaplaning?
According to Dr. Jack, most skin types can benefit from dermaplaning. However, as with every skin treatment, there are some people who should give dermaplaning a wide berth. “Anyone with a skin infection or breaks in the skin would not be suited to dermaplaning,” he says.
Of course, it goes without saying that running a dermaplaning device over acneic or irritated skin is a big no-no. "Those that have sensitive skin types and a broken skin barrier Dermaplaning would be a ‘no no’ as this can lead to cuts and cracks in the skin," says Dr. Ejikeme. "Anyone who has active acne must not do dermaplaning as this can lead to irritation of the skin and actually spreading of the bacteria or infection through the skin."
Does dermaplaning make hair grow back stubbly?
You can file this one under ‘urban skincare myths’, because dermaplaning absolutely does not lead to stubby regrowth, thicker hair, or any other kind of undesirable follicular situation on your precious complexion. If it did, we wouldn’t even be going there.
“There is no risk of the hairs growing back thicker or darker as the physiology of the fine vellus hair follicles are not affected by the procedure,” explains Dr. Jack.
Is at-home dermaplaning safe?
Like LED masks and microneedling, dermaplaning treatments have transcended the clinic to become an at-home proposition, with a host of DIY dermaplaning devices hitting the virtual shelves.
However, that’s not to say you should dive straight in without a second thought.
“Since dermaplaning works best using an extremely sharp scalpel blade with practitioners who have been properly trained to handle them, I wouldn’t recommend dermaplaning at home unless you’ve received some proper training,” says Dr. Jack. “The angle and pressure of the blade on the skin is a skill that takes a little while to perfect, so the risk with the home devices of cutting the skin may be higher than having it done professionally.”
The best at-home dermaplaners
If you do decide to dabble in the technique at home, play if safe and avoid the sharp blades, instead, invest in the best dermaplaning device – and do not even think about reaching for that old razor. Thankfully, there is a small yet promising new school of at-home dermaplaners now on the shelves.
One such brand that claims to have overcome the safety issues is Dermaflash.
This advanced device isn't actually a shaver in the traditional sense: rather, it’s billed as an exfoliation tool, which uses a sterile and precisely positioned, single-use blade alongside sonic vibrations to gently remove the dead skin cells on the dermis, as well as any peach fuzz.
DERMAflash Luxe+ Advanced Sonic Dermaplaning and Peach Fuzz Removal - Stone
Each single-use blade is slipped into the device without being touched, so there's no sterility compromises, and the sharp edge is set into the silicone device, meaning you can't cut yourself. If you're looking to remove excess hair from your jawline, or are prepping for a big event, this might just be the tool for you.
Roberta Schroeder is the Senior Ecommerce Editor at Harper's Bazaar, ELLE and Esquire, overseeing shopping strategy and content across fashion, beauty, and travel. Roberta has reported on everything from market-leading skincare brands to the world’s most iconic fashion pieces, while also regularly updating a range of shopping guides, including LED masks, heritage cashmere brands and niche new dress brands to know.
Roberta has more than 15 years' experience in the luxury sector, spanning editorial consultancy, trend forecasting and journalism. Over the years, she has worked for global brands including Farfetch, Chanel, and Vogue.
When not testing beauty products, trialling trends and curating content that spotlights the very best in fashion and beauty, Roberta can usually be found trawling resale sites and vintage stores for a long-coveted designer find. Follow Roberta on Instagram at @roberta__schroeder
Keeks Reid is the Beauty Director at Cosmopolitan UK. While she loves all things beauty, Keeks is a hair fanatic through and through. She started her career in beauty journalism in 2013 as editorial assistant at Blackhair and Hair magazines working her way to Acting Editor of Blackhair magazine at 23 years old. She spent much of her career working in trade hairdressing media at Hairdressers Journal, Salon International and the British Hairdressing Awards. Which is why she is a regular contributor to Cosmo's Curl Up franchise. Now, alongside her Cosmo work, she presents, creates content on social media and works with a range of beauty companies; from magazines and websites to beauty brands and salons.
