During party season, so much emphasis is put on our eyes. Whether we are trying a smokey eye look, donning some liquid liner or experimenting with a bold cream eyeshadow. However, the looks that suit you best are dependent on a few factors, including your eye colour and eye shape. If you have hooded eyes, you’d be wrong to think that eye makeup doesn’t suit you. In fact, eye makeup can be used to enhance the beauty of your eyes. So, we spoke to the pros to find out exactly what easy makeup tricks to use for the next looks you’re about to serve!
The worst makeup for hooded eyes
While we don’t subscribe to the idea that there are no-nos for anyone when it comes to makeup (literally, you do you!), there are some things that can work against you, things like colour theory and perception. For hooded eyes, one of these things is heavy liner. "The biggest “no” is heavy liner or thick shadow on your eyelid, " says Elyse Reneau, Too Faced Head of Global Makeup. "It can hide lid space and make eyes look more closed. Another, according to Amy Conway, Bobbi Brown Global Pro Artist, is “placing your crease colour too low”, which can exaggerate the hood instead of lifting it. And lastly, “very thick, straight lashes can weigh the eye down rather than open it up.”
Where to apply eye makeup on hooded eyes?
“This is all about placement,” says Amy, “apply eyeshadow slightly above your natural crease, so it’s visible when the eyes are open.”. Elyse echoes this, saying "Think lift and light. Keep deeper shades slightly above the natural crease and blend upward to create the illusion of more lid space. A soft, lighter shade on the centre of the lid and inner corner instantly brightens and opens the eyes. Then, for blending Amy says, “blend shadows up and out, never straight across to create that lifting effect.”
Highlight the inner corner and brow bone subtly. “Nothing frosty,” warns Amy, “just light-reflecting,” and don’t ignore your brows. “Ignoring the brow, brows frame hooded eyes more than people realise. It’s all about lifting and brightening.” Finish off by curling lashes properly and really work mascara into the roots.
Mirror position matters
One thing that you might not think matters as much as it does is your position when doing your makeup, and this is especially true for hooded eyes. “One of my pro tips is to do your eye makeup while looking straight ahead in the mirror," advises Amy, "that way you’re placing colour where it’s actually seen.” If you’re looking down when you do your eye makeup, you’ll lose a lot of the mobile lid.
False lashes are for you!
While straight, thick lashes don't work the best, others work perfectly. “False lashes can be amazing on hooded eyes when chosen correctly,” says Amy. “Go for lighter, wispy styles with shorter lashes on the inner corner and length through the centre or outer edge.”
- Trim lashes from the outer edge, not the inner.
- Let lash glue go tacky before applying – this gives more control.
- Press the lashes into the lash line, not upwards.
For a super opening effect, cut your lash in half and just apply it to the outer corner for a lifted, eye-opening effect.
How to wear eyeliner on hooded eyes
While heavy black liner can be tricky on hooded eyes, Amy insists that well-placed liner is perfect for your eye shape. “Liner is one of my favourite ways to open up the eyes,” she says.
Here are her top tips to apply…
- Keep it thin at the inner corner, slightly thicker toward the outer edge.
- Avoid taking liner all the way across the lid unless it’s very fine.
- Try tightlining (lining the upper waterline) to define without losing lid space.
For kohl, smokey looks, soft, smudged liner often works beautifully on hooded eyes for a bit of definition without heaviness. “I always share with my clients how hooded eye shapes are the most seen eye shapes on the red carpet, you can create such beautiful eye makeup looks! Once you get that placement right, everything looks amazing!”
Urban Decay 24 7 Glide-On Eye Pencil
Keeks Reid is the Beauty Director at Cosmopolitan UK. While she loves all things beauty, Keeks is a hair fanatic through and through. She started her career in beauty journalism in 2013 as editorial assistant at Blackhair and Hair magazines working her way to Acting Editor of Blackhair magazine at 23 years old. She spent much of her career working in trade hairdressing media at Hairdressers Journal, Salon International and the British Hairdressing Awards. Which is why she is a regular contributor to Cosmo's Curl Up franchise. Now, alongside her Cosmo work, she presents, creates content on social media and works with a range of beauty companies; from magazines and websites to beauty brands and salons.
