Co-washing: how to do it and the best products for every curl type

Mostly used by those of us with coarser curls and Afro hair, co-washing is a technique that builds on the same principles as avoiding sulphates: that is, to improve hydration. “Curly hair needs maximum moisture to create definition with minimal frizz,” explains Michele Scott Lynch, curl expert and founder of Bouclème.

“Harsh detergents like sulphates remove all of the hair’s natural hydration, leaving curls parched and frizzy. Co-washing is a way to combat this and involves conditioner-only washing, or using a cream-based, non-foaming product to clean the scalp and hair, gently cleansing without upsetting the moisture balance,” she says. “It’s a bit like using a cream cleanser on your face rather than a foam one. A cream cleanser removes dirt and leaves skin hydrated whilst a foam one can leave skin feeling tight and dry.”

If your hair errs on the greasy side, you’re probably thinking this isn’t for you, but Michele insists that it can be – you might just need to mix it up with your regular formula.

“Oily scalps may find co-washing too gentle, and require a mild detergent-based shampoo (decyl glucoside), but alternating between this and co-washing will help to maintain optimum hydration. How often you co-wash depends on the needs of your individual curls. Some people co-wash only, some alternate co-washing one day with shampoo the next, others mainly co-wash but shampoo once a month for a deeper cleanse. Experiment to find what works best for your curls.”

And the advice for any first timers out there: “If you’re co-washing for the first time, expect a transition period of 4-8 weeks as the scalp’s oil production goes from over-producing to normalising. Roots can feel greasy during this period but will level out,” assures Michele.

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