With Afro-textured hair, there’s no one-size-fits-all approach. From product recommendations to ideal routines, understanding your curls and coils can help you achieve optimal results, whether you’re looking for a new styling technique or increased hair growth.
Hair thickness has often been overlooked, especially with Afro hair, but it could be why your curls aren’t responding to specific products or why they feel softer after wash days. If you’re a fine-haired girlie like me, here’s everything you need to know about your strands for better styling results.
What is fine hair?
The thickness of your strands impacts how your hair holds styles, its strength and how it responds to products. Thick hair is more durable but can be prone to frizz and dryness, while fine hair is delicate but easily weighed down and more prone to tangling and fairy knots.
It’s a common myth that all coily hair is coarse; however, having fine Afro hair means your strands are delicate, with a small diameter and feel soft or barely noticeable when rolled between fingers.
I discovered I had fine hair after I noticed my hair wasn’t responding to the heavy products suggested by those with thicker hair than mine.
I consulted with my hairstylist to confirm this, but you can also try the sewing thread method to test your hair, which is a popular easy way to see at home. Simply place a strand of hair next to a piece of average thread and if the strand is visibly thinner than the thread, you have fine hair.
Celebrity hairstylist Lorraine Dublin explains that having fine hair “refers to the diameter of a single strand, not how much hair you have. You can have fine but dense hair (lots of strands) or fine and sparse," she says, "don’t confuse the two.”
This also means that specific styles look, feel and behave differently. For example, my silk presses are wispy or “boneless” and need a lightweight serum or finishing oil to keep them smooth. Having fine hair also means I’m prone to breakage, so low-tension styles are a must for keeping my hairline intact.
It’s not all doom and gloom, though. My fine hair stays softer for longer, wash days are a breeze as detangling is quicker and I don’t use as much product, so my pockets don’t hurt from frequent repurchases.
The best fine hair wash-day
Since catering my wash day routine to my fine hair, I’ve watched my hair flourish. My hair is stronger, has more bounce and elasticity, and split ends are a thing of the past.
My simple and effective routine for fine coily or curly hair consists of a gentle cleanser, like the Being Goodbye Frizz Smoothing Shampoo or Aveeno’s Clarify & Shine Apple Cider Vinegar Blend Shampoo, which doubles as a soothing scalp cleanse.
Aveeno Clarify and Shine Apple Cider Vinegar Scalp Soothing Shampoo for all Hair Types 300ml
Aveeno Clarify and Shine Apple Cider Vinegar Scalp Soothing Shampoo for all Hair Types 300ml
For conditioners and masks, my current go-to is the Being Intense Moisturising Conditioner, made specifically for coils in need of nourishment. If leave-ins are more your vibe, Shea Moisture’s Intensive Hydration Leave-In Conditioner is a lightweight, water-based staple, or Dublin recommends the Kinky-Curly Knot Today Leave-In Conditioner as it has “great slip” and “won’t weigh the hair down.”
Kinky-Curly Natural Leave-In Detangler (Knot Today)
Kinky-Curly Natural Leave-In Detangler (Knot Today)
On days when extra TLC is needed, I replace my conditioner step with the K18 Leave-in Molecular Repair Hair Mask. This works wonders at immediately restoring strength, softness, smoothness and bounce to my coils.
K18 Biomimetic Hairscience Leave-in Molecular Repair Hair Mask 50ml
K18 Biomimetic Hairscience Leave-in Molecular Repair Hair Mask 50ml
And if you’re keen on reinforcing fragile ends without making them stiff, Dublin swears by the Aphogee Keratin 2 Minute Reconstructor as a gentle treatment that balances protein and moisture, though it’s best to use it sparingly.
Dos and don’ts for styling fine Afro-textured hair
Do: Opt for lightweight, low-tension styles
Low tension, lightweight hairstyles include everything from loose low buns to experimenting with heatless twists or braid outs, basically any style that doesn't require you to pull your hair too tightly.
Don’t worry, you can still rock protective styles like knotless braids, but ensure your braided hairstyles aren’t tight. Fine hair often struggles to support the weight of extensions and could detach at the root.
Don’t: Fall for the micro braid trend
Unfortunately, the micro braid trend isn’t the protective style you think it is for fine hair. Dublin advises against this type of style and to instead opt for medium to large partings on the scalp to avoid excess weight on tiny, dense sections, which causes excess tension and could lead to breakage, hair loss or even traction alopecia.
Do: Moisturise hair before and during styling
“Fine hair dries out quickly, so use lightweight leave-ins and seal lightly to make sure hair is moisturised before and during the style,” Lorraine suggests.
I’ve ditched heavy butter and creams when moisturising, swapping for lightweight products like Pattern’s Repair 360 Leave-In Foam – which has fast become my holy grail for bond repair through a blend of vegan proteins and amino acids but is sadly not available in the UK – and Garnier’s Method For Curls Air Dry Cream.
Don’t: Neglect your scalp and ends
If there’s one TikTok trend you should learn from, it’s the rise of scalpcore. Keeping your scalp clean and refreshed through regular washing and the use of a light oil or serum – Lorraine says The Ordinary 100% Organic Cold-Pressed Argan Oil works wonders. Equally, your ends need regular attention too, so ensure these are kept nourished every few days with regular trims every few months.
Common fine hair myths debunked
Myth: Oils promote growth
As a former scalp oiling obsessive who’s had my scalp scanned by several trichologists, this myth is one I wish I debunked sooner. Overusing hair oils, especially thick ones like castor oil, can clog your hair follicles and weigh down fine hair strands.
Instead, use a light oil like the Eternal Curls Polish & Protect Oil on your mid-lengths and ends and reserve serums like Cecred’s Restoring Edge Drops or the Camille Rose Rejuva Drops for your scalp and use as directed. If oils are part of your routine, be sure to follow up with a clarifying shampoo on wash days to avoid product buildup.
Myth: Fine Afro hair should never be trimmed
According to Dublin, this is a harmful myth, and it’s false – here’s why. “Fine hair is more prone to split ends because the strand is thinner,” she explains. “If you don’t trim, splits travel up the shaft, causing more breakage. This leads to the illusion that your hair won’t grow. Ultimately, trimming doesn’t stop growth; it preserves length by preventing breakage.
So what’s the better approach? Dublin recommends light trims every 8 to 12 weeks, or as needed) or tiny trims known as dusting for maintaining length.
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Lauren Gordon is a contributor for Cosmopolitan’s Black Beauty Hub and the Emerging Audiences Editor at The Mirror, where she leads the Under-35s team and serves as the creator-curator of The Gulp, a weekly lifestyle and culture newsletter.
With nearly a decade of experience across leading newsrooms and digital platforms, Lauren’s career in lifestyle and beauty journalism flourished after earning her journalism degree from the University of the Arts London.
