As a beauty editor with sensitive skin who tests products for a living, I’m pretty in tune with the ingredients that play nicely with redness, eczema, acne, and dryness. And because I deal with several of those concerns myself, I’ve learned the hard way that my skin simply can’t tolerate retinol serums and creams.
Luckily, a growing number of retinol alternatives can deliver many of the same smoothing and brightening benefits without the irritation. I’ve tested dozens over the years, and unlike traditional retinol formulas, many don’t require you to completely rethink yourskincareroutine or become hypervigilant about sun exposure. One of the latest is the Yon-Ka Retinol-Like Bi-Serum, a luxe French skincare formula made with sensitive skin in mind.
About Yon-Ka’s Retinol-Like Bi-Serum:
Instead of relying on a vitamin A derivative, Yon-Ka built this serum around a duo of plant-based ingredients that help mimic the effects of retinol. It combines biomimetic microalgae—which have a structure comparable to retinoic acid (the purest form of retinol) and help activate fibroblasts (the cells responsible for producing collagen and elastin in your skin)—with mastic tree extract (harvested from the Greek island of Chios), which supports the skin’s renewal process. Together, they help smooth the look of fine lines, refine skin texture, and support firmer-looking skin—without the irritation, peeling, or dryness often associated with traditional retinoids.
- Key ingredients: Biomimetic microalgae, Mastic tree extract, Gardenia extract
- Price: $178
- How to use: Shake to combine the two phases, then apply several drops to clean skin
My Yon-Ka Serum Review:
To apply, I shake the bottle and let the maroon (it’s that color thanks to antioxidant-rich gardenia extract) and clear formula fuse together before dispensing a few drops into my hands. It’s designed to be used nightly, but I prefer it every other day, switching on and off with my favorite growth factor serum. I massage it into my cheeks and forehead before bringing any leftover product down to my neck and décolleté.
It layers really nicely under the rest of my skincare accoutrements, settling into the skin in less than a minute before I move on with the rest of my routine. It immediately leaves my face feeling smooth to the touch, and has a subtle, soothing botanical scent that I love for winding down at the end of the day.
The texture is lightweight and silky, and despite being a bi-phase formula, it doesn’t leave behind any greasy residue. After a few weeks of use, my skin looked smoother and more even overall, especially on my forehead, where I was focusing on improving hyperpigmentation and fine lines.
But what impressed me most was what didn’t happen. There was no redness, peeling, flaking, or irritation, aka the exact side effects that have caused me to quit countless anti-aging products in the past. My skin stayed calm the entire time I used it, which is enough reason in itself to keep it stored on my bathroom shelves.
Final thoughts
I’m a superfan of French skincare, and this luxe formula is the latest serum I’ve added to my nighttime routine. Since my skin can’t handle any retinoid, no matter how gentle or low the percentage claims to be, I was thrilled to learn this was made completely with plant-derived alternatives.
While $178 is a steep price point for a single serum, it’s packed with ingredients that target the same concerns people typically reach for retinol to address, including fine lines, uneven texture, and collagen production. It also skips the harsh adjustment period and dryness that retinol often comes with.
So if you’ve got sensitive skin, mature skin, or both, and you’re willing to invest in a serum, the Yon-Ka Retinol-Like Bi-Serum is one of the more impressive retinol alternatives I’ve tried.
Jasmine Hyman is the Assistant Beauty Editor at Cosmopolitan, where she writes about the latest beauty trends and must-have products. Her most prized beauty possessions are a meticulous skincare routine and salon blowouts. You’ll also likely find her in bed reading a good book or endlessly scrolling TikTok (spoiler: it’s usually the latter) while listening to Harry Styles’ entire discography on repeat. Follow her on Insta to be inundated with pictures of her meals.
