In the innately intertwined world of beauty and wellness, it seems like there’s a new fad popping up every other day. Whether it’s the myriad of cold plunge spas lining the streets or the newest injectable peptide craze, there’s been a major influx of both interest and confusion around the wellness industry, and whether treatments and tools are doing more harm than good. And lately, there’s been an uptick in steaming and, consequently, questions about whether or not the steam from your shower is bad for your hair.
FYI, hair steaming has been around for decades and was originally popularized in salons specializing in curls and coils. We’ve previously rounded up all the best at-home steamers for natural hair and answered all your pressing questions, so today, we’re gonna go back to the basics. Let’s dive into whether your shower steam is helpful or harmful for all hair types, the difference between shower steam and hair steamers, and what happens to your hair in steam rooms, courtesy of expert trichologist Kerry E. Yates.
Ahead, everything you need to know about steam’s effect on your hair, plus how to prevent dryness and heat damage.
What is hair steaming?
Hair steaming uses steam to open up your hair cuticles and scalp pores, allowing products to penetrate deeper into the hair, improving moisture, hydration, and overall health. It’s been used in hair salons specializing in curls and coils (such as 4a, 4, and 4c hair) for ages, and many people with curly hair, and even those with straight hair, swear by it. And while hair steaming can be done in the shower or bath with a heated towel, you’ll typically get better results from a salon steaming service or an at-home device.
If you go the at-home route, steaming is relatively simple. Once a week, apply your favorite moisturizing mask, serum, etc., throughout your hair, and sit under the device for about fifteen to twenty minutes. Avoid steaming multiple times a week to prevent heat damage (think: damage from a straightener or a curling iron). Then, sit back, relax, and let the steamer work its magic to leave you with shinier, smoother, and more moisturized hair.
Is steam from the shower bad for your hair?
Yates says that, generally speaking, steam from the shower is not bad for your hair. In fact, a National Library of Medicine study found that if your hair is exposed to heat below 284 degrees, any changes to your hair structure are minimal and reversible.
Though steam is moist heat, to put it in perspective, the average shower temperature is somewhere between 98 and 104 degrees.
However, this isn’t to say that there's no chance of any risks at all. Excessive moisture is thought to create something called hygral fatigue, which is when your hair repeatedly swells and shrinks as it absorbs and loses water, potentially leading to damage mostly on high-porosity, fine, or color-treated hair types. Those who believe they’ve experienced this report issues like loss of curl pattern, breakage, tangles, and frizz.
“Typically, your shower steam won’t be extreme, unless you are in a steam room,” Yates explains, but more on that below. If you’re worried, be mindful of your shower temperature, how often you wash your hair, and the length of your showers.
Are hot or cold showers better for your hair?
Though Yates says that steam from the shower isn’t bad for your hair, what can be damaging is hot water’s effect on the scalp. Your scalp is an extension of the skin on your face, and without a healthy scalp, your hair can become prone to a series of conditions (like hair loss or dandruff) and inhibit hair growth. “Exposing your scalp and skin to super hot water can cause redness, inflammation, and irritation,” Yates says, adding that repeated exposure to extreme heat can negatively impact follicle health and cause dryness. Think about it, you wouldn’t wash your face with scorching hot water, so why would you use it on your scalp?!
Yates says that if you feel as though the water is too hot or burning, exit the shower immediately, and if you notice that your scalp is dry or if you begin to feel anything off/painful on your scalp, see a dermatologist or trichologist who can better assess your issue.
Are steam rooms and saunas bad for your hair?
While steam rooms can reach around 120 degrees Fahrenheit and dry saunas can climb upwards of 190 degrees, that’s still below the roughly 285-degree threshold where heat damage to the hair typically begins. However, prolonged exposure to heat in these rooms can leave your hair feeling dry or frizzy if you’re not protecting it properly.
To help protect your hair before heading into a sauna or steam room, try combing a leave-in conditioner or a hydrating mask through your lengths beforehand to help lock in moisture and prevent dryness.
The bottom line:
In general, Yates says that steam from the shower is not bad for your hair. What can be harmful is too much hot water on your scalp, which can result in irritation, dryness, or inflammation. An optimal scalp environment is key to your hair’s health, so be aware of the water temperature and the length of your showers, but don’t worry too much about a little steam clouding up your bathroom mirror. And if you’re headed into a steam room or sauna, make sure you limit your time and throw in a moisturizing hair mask beforehand.
Meet the expert:
Kerry E. Yates is a trichologist and the creator of Colour Collective, an incubator of beauty development partners who help conceptualize, create, and execute new beauty brands.
Why trust Cosmopolitan?
Siena Gagliano is the former associate editor at Cosmopolitan and has four years of experience writing about beauty, fashion, and lifestyle news. She’s an expert at researching and writing beauty stories, like the best shampoos and scalp serums.
Jasmine Hyman is the assistant beauty editor at Cosmo who covers all things beauty, including wellness, skincare, and haircare. She regularly works with the industry’s top dermatologists, hairstylists, and trichologists to assess new products, formulas, and brands.
Jasmine Hyman is the Assistant Beauty Editor at Cosmopolitan, where she writes about the latest beauty trends and must-have products. Her most prized beauty possessions are a meticulous skincare routine and salon blowouts. You’ll also likely find her in bed reading a good book or endlessly scrolling TikTok (spoiler: it’s usually the latter) while listening to Harry Styles’ entire discography on repeat. Follow her on Insta to be inundated with pictures of her meals.
