If you have been influenced to splurge on an LED mask, we don't blame you. They're probably most popular type of skin tech on the market right now and for good reason. LED light therapy masks can help to bring the rejuvenation of an in-clinic facial to your home, and are a user-friendly way to address a number of skin issues, such as eczema, acne, psoriasis and sun damage to name just a few and benefits include naturally boosting collagen to reducing inflammation. It’s safe, painless and typically takes around 10 to 20 minutes daily or weekly for about two to three months to see results.
This beauty gadget will set you back from around £99 and can go up to £300+, but for all the benefits above, it’s worth it – trust me, your skin will thank you for it. They work by using specific wavelengths of light (like red, blue, and near-infrared) to treat various skin concerns, including fine lines and wrinkles to redness, dullness and even tissue repair.
Red light is commonly used for 'anti-ageing' and collagen production, and will work to improve the overall appearance and texture of your skin as well as targeting inflammation and wrinkles. Blue light will target acne by destroying acne-causing bacteria and reducing active breakouts, leaving you with a clearer, smoother complexion. Near-infrared is invisible to the human eye and penetrates the deepest, accelerating cell regeneration, promoting blood flow and enhancing overall skin firmness.
Some more advanced masks may feature colours beyond the classic three. Purple light to treat aging and blemishes or yellow/green light for to soothe and calm sensitive or irritated skin, or to balance and even out skin tone. But the issue is that not all wavelengths are equally suitable for all skin tones, and Black women and those with melanin-rich skin need a more tailored approach.
Can you use blue light on Black skin?
"Melanin-rich skin behaves differently when exposed to light and energy-based treatments, which is why a ‘one-size-fits-all’ approach simply doesn’t work with LED,” Teoxane key opinion leader and founder of the Skin Doctor Clinics, Dr Saleena Zimri, explains. “Higher levels of melanin mean the skin is more reactive to inflammation, and anything that triggers irritation, even subtly, can increase the risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.”
This means that, while blue light is commonly used for acne, it can potentially trigger inflammation or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) in deeper skin tones if used incorrectly or excessively.
That doesn’t mean blue light isn’t for you, it simply means to use with real caution and “ideally under professional guidance if you’re prone to pigmentation,” Dr Zimri suggests.
Instead, sticking to red and near-infrared light are your best bet if you’re keen to target hyperpigmentation and inflammation. According to Dr. Selma Van Asselt, who works in partnership with Silk’n, these wavelengths are generally considered “safest and most effective for darker skin” as they penetrate deeper to promote collagen production and reduce inflammation without triggering melanin production.
Dr Van Asselt suggests only using blue light if you have acne lesions and need to kill off the bacteria. Even then, it’s best to use it together with red light and keep sessions short – no longer than 8-10 minutes.
“In case your mask has a preprogrammed session time: Make sure your blue light session time is no longer than 10 minutes and preferably switch the mask off towards the 8th minute. As soon as the acne lesions are going down, continue by only using red light. Although red light does not kill the acne bacteria, it will help to significantly reduce the sebum production,” Dr Van Asselt explains.
LED light therapy masks for Black skin
Now that you know how to safely use an LED light therapy mask, it’s time for the fun part – shopping! If you have a deeper skin tone, Dr Van Asselt says it’s crucial to choose a mask that has red and near-infrared wavelengths. The Silk’n LED Face Mask Pro offers these wavelengths, as well as purple and amber (best for skin hydration), and provides full-face coverage, including chin and jawline, for complete and even rejuvenation.
Silk'n LED Face Mask Pro
She also recommends a mask that has intermittent LED light frequency. This switches the irradiation on and off, in a way that is hardly visible for the naked eye and “gives the skin the chance to cool during the ‘off’ moments, improving light absorption and reducing the risk of heat buildup”.
For LED mask beginners, we love the Shark CryoGlow LED mask, which comes with four dermatologist-inspired preset treatments, one is a mix of red, near-infrared and blue light, a mix of wavelengths that Dr Van Asselt recommends as it’s “the power of the mask will be divided over the different wavelengths and it’s more unlikely that temperature in the skin gets too high.”
Whatever mask you do choose, consistency is the key to seeing results. As Dr Zimri explains, LED is not a single use treatment, but a longer term one used to enhance results when used with other treatments. “LED works by stimulating cellular processes such as collagen production or reducing inflammation, which takes time,” she says. “While you may notice some immediate glow, meaningful, lasting results come with regular use over several weeks.”
Lauren Gordon is a contributor for Cosmopolitan’s Black Beauty Hub and the Emerging Audiences Editor at The Mirror, where she leads the Under-35s team and serves as the creator-curator of The Gulp, a weekly lifestyle and culture newsletter.
With nearly a decade of experience across leading newsrooms and digital platforms, Lauren’s career in lifestyle and beauty journalism flourished after earning her journalism degree from the University of the Arts London.
