If the three flights from London Heathrow were not enough of an indicator, stepping off the plane in the Okavango Delta, Botswana, and feeling the heat whipping against my face, signalled that the next three days were going to be extremely different from my normal life. Because Wilderness Vumbura Plains is very much not like normal life - and maybe that’s the point.
Against the backdrop of long dunes, the safari camp is perched on the delta waterways, at the edge of the vast grassy plains of Northern Botswana. Seamlessly straddling land and water, the delta is an oasis in an otherwise dry environment, and has been a UNESCO’s World Heritage Site since 2014. From the minute you arrive, Vumbura Plains is enough to take your breath away, thanks to the sheer, well, nature, as far as the eye can see. It’s in the chirping birds and wailing frogs, as we sipped a refreshing welcome drink on the fireside sofas. In the rustle of animals just out of sight, before we’d spent even a minute on a game drive. The assault on our senses - the sights, the sounds, the feelings - as we realised how far from ‘real life’ we felt.
It’s hard to describe what going on a safari for the first time is like without using cliches. But maybe they’re cliches for a reason. Because it truly is a once in a lifetime experience, and something you’ll cherish forever - especially when it’s done at a place like Wilderness. It’s an onslaught of ‘pinch me’ moments; three days that feel like living in a dream - the most sublime one that you wouldn’t want to wake up from.
The camp
Wilderness Vumbura Plains blends seamlessly into its natural surroundings, thanks to the intentional feel of the space. Designed around a raised wooden walkway, which gives the feeling of floating above the land, each of the 14 private suites are situated overlooking the floodplains, fit with their own plunge pool, sun loungers, private seating and dining areas. And did we mention an outdoor shower?
The rooms aren’t made of walls; instead, wood and glass invite an indoor-outdoor feel, while the stripped-back, authentic design leans into local culture and landscapes. It’s hard to overstate how immersed in wildlife you feel - the vast windows allow for expansive views in all directions- to the extent that we literally felt the rain on our skin during a middle-of-the-night thunderstorm, despite being in bed, when it lashed through the side of our room.
The shared areas of the camp are spectacular; a well-stocked bar positioned behind sofas and a firepit, and a dining area that overlooks the hippos and wildlife of the Delta below. There are even lowered areas of the walkway to allow for elephants to cross (yes, really), while the brilliant staff insist on escorting you to and from your room when it’s dark, just in case of any animal action. For safety and for sightings!
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Speaking of the staff, their kindness, enthusiasm and knowledge is the true heart of Vumbura Plains. Their understanding of the area is second to none, and no question or problem is too small. If you’re lucky enough to visit, try to ensure you’re there for boma-night - a celebration of Botswanaian heritage with traditional food, dancing and singing around a camp fire.
The camp is also committed to impactful tourism through eco-friendly efforts, like full solar panels and power, and has an ongoing partnership with the Okavango Community Trust and its residents from five local villages, meaning the community feel is real - and authentic. Take time to read about the camp from the educational materials available on the walls of the welcome area to gain a genuine understanding of where you are.
The safari
While a 5am alarm might not feel like the start of a holiday, the Okavango sunrise is just the first of many awe-inspiring things that will make it feel worthwhile. Grab a cup of coffee and a freshly baked poppy-seed muffin, and jump into the back of your vehicle, to head out for the first of two game drives each day.
As for what you’ll find? It’s hard to do the 60 000-hectare private wilderness area justice with words - it’s something that doesn’t feel real until you see it with your own eyes. But maybe you’ll see the pride of female lions, lazily hanging out in the low dunes. Or a leopard mother and son showing each other affection, as she teaches her cub how to hunt. Perhaps it’s a family of elephants, making their way from one part of the bush to another. Or a giraffe, greedily devouring twigs from a tree. Perhaps you’ll be more engrossed by the hyenas and wild dogs - rare to see, which makes it all the more exciting.
It’s important to note that nothing is guaranteed on a safari; particularly in this environment - Wilderness Vumbura Plains stretches across a huge private natural area. In other words - the landscape is vast, and the animals, obviously, run free. And yet, that’s all part of the magic - while we didn’t spot cheetahs or see the whole big five, you genuinely won’t ever tire of seeing your third dazzle of zebras (yes, that is the name for a group of the animal. Told you! Magic!)
Also, what makes Wilderness feel quite so special is the fact the number of cars allowed to follow an animal sighting is capped at three, so it often feels like you’re on what is effectively a private safari tour. The guides have a deep understanding of the landscape and when you should stay on the road, versus where it’s appropriate to drive deeper into the bush in search of animals. And as such, no two game drives are the same - for you, or other guests. They have incredible knowledge of the animals, and a genuine respect for the surroundings.
The camp also offers the rare and enviable mix of land and water safaris - because of the proximity to the delta, mokoro (a traditional canoe to the region) is on the cards, as is a speedboat drive. What could be more captivating than a gin and tonic sundowner, overlooking a herd of hippos in the distance?
The food
Let’s just say you’re not going to go hungry at a Wilderness camp. From the minute you’re in the care of their brilliant staff (shout out to our game driver, Kabo!), every possible eventuality has been covered. An ice cold beer to celebrate a wild cat sighting? Local biltong as the sun sets over the floodplains? A buffet lunch out in the bush, overlooking the wild antelope enjoying a watering hole? Check, check, check.
Meals are fresh, organic, and sourced from surrounding farms. Choose from a shortlist of starters, mains and desserts each night, while tea is served before your afternoon game drive each night. Think: mini fish tacos with spicy sauce, freshly made scones with jam and cream, and tiny one-bite pizzas to keep you going on the road.
As previously mentioned, breakfast is a 5am wake up call followed by a stiff cup of coffee, and whether you want to eat at your leisure (boiled eggs, bacon baps and fresh fruit galore) or grab and go, it’s all at your leisure with Wilderness. Alongside drinks (except the most premium spirits or Champagne), everything is included within your stay, and it’s amazing how easily you slip into the daily routine.
Bliss.
Find out more about Wilderness Vumbura Plains, or visit wildernessdestinations.com
Dusty Baxter-Wright is an award-winning journalist and the Entertainment and Lifestyle Director at Cosmopolitan, having previously worked at Sugarscape. She was named one of PPA’s 30 Under 30 for her work covering pop culture, careers, interiors and travel, and oversees the site’s Entertainment and Lifestyle strategy across print, digital and video. As a journalist for the best part of a decade, she has interviewed everyone from Louis Theroux and Channing Tatum to Margot Robbie and Ncuti Gatwa, while she has also spoken on Times Radio and BBC Radio. You can find her on Twitter and Instagram here.
