There are some moments in life which – even as they’re playing out – you’re aware will embed themselves in your mind forever: for me, watching an amber-hued sun melt beyond the horizon, while sat on the edge of a lake in the remote Indian village of Chandelao, 26 miles outside the city of Jodhpur, was certainly one.
The silence was perfectly still, bar insects and birds chirping in the background, or the lone cow wandering by – or the occasional waving family, whizzing past on a moped. Mostly though, sunsets in Chandelao offer a type of tangerine-tinged peace that make you feel like you’re perched on the edge of an entirely different planet.
One which reminds you of how vast the world really is and how, somehow, small your problems are in the grand scheme of it all – a feeling which is one of my favourite parts of travelling and experiencing new places.
But this special moment of my 8-day tour around northern India could easily have been missed, had I stuck solely to India’s famed ‘Golden Triangle’ route (Agra, Delhi and Jaipur), a well-trodden path coined back in the 1980s by the tourist board. For those in the know, however, the ‘Blue City’ of Jodhpur, and Chandelao, a village on its outskirts, must be added into the mix.
Luckily, the sustainable tourism company, Intrepid, who I travelled with, more than understands pulling an inspiring itinerary together, and its Women’s Expedition (set to run over twenty times next year, given its immense popularity) is no exception. It ensures there’s plenty of time to visit both the Blue City and a rural spot on its periphery, providing the chance to see what life is like for different types of Indians in the northwest.
Just an hour’s flight from Delhi, but which is also easily accessible from the capital by train, Jodhpur, the second-largest city in the state of Rajasthan, is a spot that firmly deserves to be on your bucket list.
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Let’s dive in to where to stay, what to do and what to eat while in Jodhpur (and if you’ve no idea where to begin with planning your own trip, or want more insider intel, I’d strongly suggest seeing what tours Intrepid are running in the region – having a local guide is invaluable wherever you are in the world, but in a place as vast and overwhelming as India, I’d go so far as to say it’s an essential for a first-timer).
Where to stay in Jodhpur
Mandore Guest House, Jodhpur
A leafy haven surrounded by greenery (you’ll appreciate the respite after a day of getting dusty in the sun) with a part-shaded pool, offering relief from the bustling city of Jodhpur. This gem is exactly the place you will want to come home to after a day of browsing busy markets and exploring. Mandore Guest House is a boutique spot with just 25 rooms, the friendliest of staff and is great value for money.
Rooms at The Mandore start from £28 per night
Chandelao Garh in Chandelao village (26 miles outside Jodhpur)
When it comes to finding somewhere unique to lay your head and that offers a true slice of Indian village life, Chandelao Garh is hard to beat. This former 17th century fort turned family-run hotel is in the rural village of Chandelao, a quiet time capsule which sees a minimal number of tourists. It delivers incredible home-cooked breakfast and curries for guests each day (warning: there may be an incredibly cute dog snoozing under your table) and has a pool that’s perfect for cooling off in, as well as stunning traditional architecture and on-site yoga.
In the early evening, as the sun begins to dip, head out to explore the local village with one of the hotel’s charming guides: expect to be greeted by curious kids who want nothing more than for you to wave back at them, the odd wandering cow and smiling farmers on their way home from a busy day at work in the fields. Heads up: while the village itself isn’t densely populated (best estimates put the population at a little over 2,000), if you’re coming from a grouchy British city, prepare to have to say ‘hello!’ to all of your new neighbours.
Rooms at Chandelao Garh from £40 per night
What to do in Jodhpur
Shop at the Sunder Rang Crafts Centre
When I tell you I purchased one of the most flattering dresses I’ve ever encountered in Chandelao, that I know for certain will be in my wardrobe until the day I die, I truly mean it – and I found it at the Sunder Rang Crafts Centre.
The centre was established in the village back in 2007, as a way to encourage local women to start earning money independently of their husbands. Often, women in Indian villages feel their role is to stay at home with their children or assist with farming, and alternative opportunities, including the right to an education, are limited (or non-existent).
Sunder Rang’s design studio allows local women to take part in flexible work as seamstresses, and offers them reading and writing lessons each day too, plus a cut of the profits from any sales on top of their wages and an annual road trip somewhere else in the country – the chance of a lifetime for most.
Each product at the centre, which includes sequinned cushion covers (yep, I had to bag one of those too), quilted jackets, chic patterned totes and more, is handmade, using traditional methods, and has a sustainable focus. If they have the ‘Jackie dress’ in stock, you’d be a fool to pass it up.
Learn more about Sunder Rang
Visit the Mehrangarh Fort
Built back in 1460, by one of India’s many royal families at the time, this impressive former palace overlooking Jodhpur is packed full of fascinating history and decadent interiors that would put Marie Antoinette to shame (seriously). It’s a feast for the eyes.
Entry fee to Mehrangarh Fort is around £5, for a guided tour the price increases
Explore Sardar Market (and pass by Ghanta Ghar, the Clock Tower)
Lose yourself in Sardar Market’s whirl of spices, silver jewellery and fabrics. Go early to beat the crowds, haggle your way into a bargain, and pause for chai when it gets intense. The Ghanta Ghar clock tower looms above it all – a striking 19th-century landmark anchoring Jodhpur’s riot of colour and sound – so make sure you stop for a photo op before heading home.
Admire the Blue City from a vantage point
Any city ending with ‘pur’ is bound to be jam-packed full of history: ‘pur’ is the oldest Sanskrit word for ‘city’ and denotes a place once under the rule of a Hindu kingdom. In terms of other names, Jodhpur is also known as the ‘Blue City’, due to its many buildings washed in indigo paint designed to repel insects and keep buildings cool.
Unlike Jaipur (the ‘Pink City’), it’s not mandatory to colour your home blue, but many locals still do – and the best place to take it all in is from Pachetia Hill. Climb via steep lanes near Navchowkiya for sweeping views of Mehrangarh Fort and the many houses below, and make sure you’re there for sunset. Your Instagram will thank you.
Learn the art of rangoli and henna
As part of the Intrepid Women’s Expedition to India, travellers are invited to take part in a henna and rangoli workshop, spearheaded by two women from the neighbourhood (paying tribute to the company’s ethos of connecting with truly local partners and providing opportunities for those in rural communities). Rangoli is a traditional Indian artform that sees brightly coloured designs made from powders or petals created on the floor outside of the home, in an effort to welcome in guests and kind gods alike (whilst warding off evil spirits).
The practice is popular during festivals like Diwali and is great fun to try yourself – tap into your inner kid and sprinkle away! The henna designs, made from a substance said to help cool the skin in the blistering Indian heat, are the perfect accessory for the rest of your tour, too.
Where to eat in Jodhpur
Khaas Bagh, Heritage Hotel
Imagine if a James Bond movie were being filmed in Jodhpur and there was a late night fine dining scene, set against the backdrop of an impressive hotel with Rajasthani heritage architecture, flanked by rare, vintage cars. Well, that’d be shot at the Khaas Bagh then, with its luxurious outdoor dining area providing the perfect setting for a sleek eating experience and/or cocktails. The aubergine curry was a huge hit with our table, as was the general mis-en-scene.
Dinner for two at the Khaas Bagh can cost as little as £15
The Shri Mishrilal Hotel (near the Clock Tower)
The rumours are true: Indian street food can be hit and miss (ever heard the phrase ‘Delhi belly’?) – but! Not when you’re with someone who knows all the sneaky backstreet alleyways off by heart, and who has an in at the locals’ favourite spots.
Our Intrepid guide, Anjali, was permanently on-hand to direct us towards something tasty, with the Shri Mishrilal Hotel’s lassi being a winning pitstop. Famed for its creamy yoghurt-y drink-dessert hybrid, the Shri Mishrilal Hotel café was fairly devoid of other tourists (but a hit with local Marwari) and offers tonnes of great street food snack options, too. Everyone loved the mogarl kachori (deep-fried bread with lentil stuffing) and mirchi vada (deep-fried green chilli stuffed with potato).
See the menu at Shri Mishrilal Hotel
Visit on Intrepid Travel’s 13-day India: Women’s Expedition from £919pp which includes accommodation, ground transport, some meals and activities, and services of a local leader. Departures every month in 2026 exc. May, June, July. International flights are extra. Book at intrepidtravel.com or call 0808 274 5111.
Jennifer Savin is Cosmopolitan UK's multiple award-winning Features Editor, who was crowned Digital Journalist of the Year for her work tackling the issues most important to young women. She regularly covers breaking news, cultural trends, health, the royals and more, using her esteemed connections to access the best experts along the way. She's grilled everyone from high-profile politicians to A-list celebrities, and has sensitively interviewed hundreds of people about their real life stories. In addition to this, Jennifer is widely known for her own undercover investigations and campaign work, which includes successfully petitioning the government for change around topics like abortion rights and image-based sexual abuse. Jennifer is also a published author, documentary consultant (helping to create BBC’s Deepfake Porn: Could You Be Next?) and a patron for Y.E.S. (a youth services charity). Alongside Cosmopolitan, Jennifer has written for The Times, Women’s Health, ELLE and numerous other publications, appeared on podcasts, and spoken on (and hosted) panels for the Women of the World Festival, the University of Manchester and more. In her spare time, Jennifer is a big fan of lipstick, leopard print and over-ordering at dinner. Follow Jennifer on Instagram, X or LinkedIn.
