This year, my summer was a washout. Not in the sense that it rained constantly and I didn’t get a tan (I’m half Scottish – of course I didn’t), but rather in the ‘my body was waging war against me and I basically became a recluse’ sense. Autoimmune conditions have a habit of unravelling slowly, often without clear answers, and after returning home from a festival in June, a cacophony of symptoms slowly kicked off for me.

Said body rebellions read like the world’s worst buffet: burning muscles, crunchy wrists, stiff fingers, dry eyes. But worst of all was the accompanying anxiety – which at one point actually prevented me from sleeping for a full 36 hours. Turns out, when your body suddenly stops feeling like your own, and doctors can’t yet tell you why, it’s hard not to spiral.

So, the idea of breaking out of this cycle and spending time in a place that would happily cater to my newfound dietary needs (in an effort to ease symptoms, I scaled back on gluten and eat a vegan diet when possible), while also boasting vast green spaces and a wellness offering rooted in kindness and adaptability? Honestly, it sounded too good to be true. But that’s what The Gilpin Hotel offers, notably as part of its new Magical Wellness Hideaway package: a 3-day stay in a private spa suite (yep, you get your own sauna, steam room and infrared light), a relaxing treatment, fine dining and a candle or soap-making workshop for some extra brain-soothing.

Here’s how I found the hotel that has been designed to heal you from the outside in…

Upfront and before we dive in: a stay at Gilpin isn’t cheap (rooms start from £280 a night and reach up to £970 for the top Spa Suites); I was offered a complementary stay in exchange for an honest review.

What is the Gilpin Hotel like?

A stone’s throw from the quaint Lake District town of Windermere, Gilpin Hotel and Gilpin Lake House are two separate sites run by the same family: the Cunliffes.

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My base was a lodge called Duddon, one of Gilpin Hotel’s Spa Suites, complete with panoramic windows overlooking a private pond, hot tub and the rolling hills beyond. Inside, there was a modern steam room, sauna, robotic massage chair and infrared light station, plus a treatment bed for in-room therapies.

The Gilpin’s private hot tub suites were revolutionary when they first opened in 2006 (“Nobody else in the UK was doing it at the time, people thought we were mad,” co-owner, Zoë Cunliffe, who runs the place with her husband, Barney, tells me) and in 2023, they added a 'Spa Space' offering too. Meaning, no matter which tier of room you have booked, you’re able to book a private slot in a communal tub too. Basically, you’ll never find yourself awkwardly hovering in a robe waiting for "your turn", which is ideal for those feeling twitchy and strung out.

wellness area featuring a massage chair and towelspinterest
Jennifer Savin
A view of the spa room in the Spa Suite, complete with a treatment bed, massage chair, steam room and sauna

“As with most things, it was our guests that inspired the idea of the Magical Wellness Hideaway package,” Zoë says. “They come to relax and be pampered, but reasons vary. While there are celebrations (birthdays, anniversaries, proposals), a lot of people also come to recuperate.”

Reasons why span from illness – be it post-treatment or those navigating a new diagnosis – to those grieving, or experiencing the gut punch of fertility issues.

“We wanted to put together something that offered privacy and respite” Cunliffe shares, and something that caters to bodies that need some extra TLC. “A specific example is if you’ve had a mastectomy, you might not feel comfortable in a public spa, and we’ve heard of places turning people with cancer away from treatments as they’re worried of harming them further. We have oncology-trained spa therapists who are happy – and trained – to care for every body.”

a calm serene bedroom with a cosy bed and view overlooking a pond outsidepinterest
Jennifer Savin
The Spa Suite bedroom

Zoë adds, “Our therapists are trained through the Amethyst Trust in safe touch therapy. From those with varicose veins, pacemakers or colostomy bags, to those who’ve had lymph nodes removed, or are in any stage of cancer treatment.

“It’s about much more than technique, it’s reintroducing safe, gentle touch to people who may have only experienced the clinical, often invasive side of healthcare.”

This ethos, of accommodating all bodies and needs with ease is apparent throughout – and makes such a difference. For me, it was incredibly reassuring knowing my massage therapist understood I was dealing with joint pain, and she navigated the inflamed areas effectively (keeping in mind that too much pressure could potentially kick off a flare up for me).

What is Gilpin's Magical Wellness Hideaway package?

The package offers a mix of two fine dining experiences, a self-care hamper of natural products, an in-room spa treatment, a plethora of breakfast options and a bento box for lunch each day, along with a candle-crafting workshop and plenty of time to explore the great outdoors.

For me, on day one, shortly after arriving and slipping into a freshly-laundered robe, Sarah, a massage therapist arrived at my suite and asked me to fill in a detailed form about how my body was feeling that day (and my health history), before delivering a treatment on one of the comfy in-room spa beds. The oils used during the treatment were all from Pure Lakes, a local natural skincare brand that Gilpin partners with, and more than helped to loosen my tight upper back muscles.

After, as Sarah packed up, the lack of communal spa trudge couldn’t have been more appreciated. No fluorescent lights breaking the spell of relaxation: it was just me, in my cocoon, a few measly steps away from the sofa in front of a fire, primed for napping.

in room spa hamper at gilpin hotelpinterest
Gilpin Hotel
The in-room spa hamper by Pure Lakes

Before dinner that night, my boyfriend and I headed out for a wander around the Gilpin grounds, meeting the llamas (seriously) and pigs along the way. While my body still flared with pain from time to time, it was easier to ignore my symptoms and focus on the fact I was doing all I could to heal it. I was still wrung out, sure, but slinking into a hot tub after a massage and a ramble is never going to be a detrimental experience. Ditto having a dinner that felt nourishing and special, without panicking about it containing anything that could trigger a reaction (more on that below).

The following day, we headed out to the Pure Lakes factory ourselves, to curate essential oils with its owner, Claire, and craft a custom-scented candle. It was strangely therapeutic, and knowing everything was derived from plant oils and butters meant I wasn’t concerned about any nasties. It was also a joyful experience getting to design a memento to take home to recapture the relaxation.

What is the food like at Gilpin Hotel?

For those with certain dietary needs, food can be a sticking point when travelling. Too often it means being fobbed off with sad salads or “just the chips, please” – but at Gilpin, it was the opposite.

At SOURCE, their Michelin-starred restaurant run by Ollie Bridgwater (formerly of The Fat Duck), I was served a series of gluten-free, vegan plates that felt as considered as anything on the main menu; beautiful, inventive, and never an afterthought. Who knew a dish consisting of broccoli cooked in multiple ways could be such a highlight, and that gluten-free bread can actually be, well… not disgusting?

the pani puri at gilpin spice were deliciouspinterest
Andre Ainsworth
The pani puri at Gilpin Spice were delicious

At Gilpin Spice, their pan-Asian restaurant, where we ate on day two, the vibe was more relaxed but equally as accommodating (and the flavours popped just as much). The tomato paneer dish was one of the best things my partner says he's ever eaten, and I loved the glazed aubergine with sticky jasmine rice.

Breakfast, meanwhile, could be ordered to the suite via the Gilpin app — with the menu offering everything from buck rarebit (which my boyfriend gave an 11 out of 10) to a full English, fruit salads or cereals – and staff repeatedly checked in about my dietary needs. Knowing I could eat without anxiety, and that there were options abound no matter my needs, felt like another form of wellness as I could firmly cross out that boring bit of brain admin.

How much does a stay at Gilpin cost?

  • Spa Suites start from £970 per night
  • Spa Lodges from £660 per night
  • Garden Suites from £480 per night
  • Junior Suites from £425 per night
  • Master Bedrooms from £335 per night
  • Classic Bedrooms from £280 per night
  • Lake House Bedrooms from £325 per night
  • Spa treatments start at £90 per person

Final thoughts: is Gilpin Hotel worth the money?

When I arrived, my body felt like it was working against me. I was anxious, aching, and tired of waiting for answers. Gilpin didn’t cure me – of course it didn’t – and my body still feels like a house that’s falling down (welp!), but it gave me something I desperately craved: care and a chance to check out of life for a bit. The Spa Suite offered a place to rest, to be looked after without guilt, to eat without stress and to feel soothed after an unpredictable few months.

I left feeling softer, calmer and a little less brittle. Which is why I wish everyone who needs it could experience something like Gilpin.

exterior shot of gilpin spa suitespinterest
Tony West

It’s not about the hot tubs or the Michelin stars (as great as they are), but being in a place where people understand that bodies can be complicated and that approaching that with kindness makes an enormous difference. When you’re dealing with something complicated or chronic health-wise, having to explain it to people (be they loved ones or strangers) can be daunting, especially when a lot of people don’t ‘get it’ or when you don’t have a firm diagnosis yourself yet. Giving myself a break from that, at least, made a huge difference.

It is expensive, there’s no denying that, but if a stay is within your budget I’d say go for Gilpin over any similar competitors. Plenty of hotels have spas. Plenty of places serve nice food. What makes the Gilpin Hotel feel different is the human factor; it’s wellness that doesn’t feel performative.

For me, arriving stiff and anxious after months of autoimmune chaos, it was exactly what I needed and a motivational boost to keep going as I continue my quest for answers.

Learn more about the Magical Wellness Hideaway packages at Gilpin here; room rates begin at £280 per night. The package starts from £2,994.


Headshot of Jennifer Savin
Jennifer Savin
Features Editor

 Jennifer Savin is Cosmopolitan UK's multiple award-winning Features Editor, who was crowned Digital Journalist of the Year for her work tackling the issues most important to young women. She regularly covers breaking news, cultural trends, health, the royals and more, using her esteemed connections to access the best experts along the way. She's grilled everyone from high-profile politicians to A-list celebrities, and has sensitively interviewed hundreds of people about their real life stories. In addition to this, Jennifer is widely known for her own undercover investigations and campaign work, which includes successfully petitioning the government for change around topics like abortion rights and image-based sexual abuse. Jennifer is also a published author, documentary consultant (helping to create BBC’s Deepfake Porn: Could You Be Next?) and a patron for Y.E.S. (a youth services charity). Alongside Cosmopolitan, Jennifer has written for The Times, Women’s Health, ELLE and numerous other publications, appeared on podcasts, and spoken on (and hosted) panels for the Women of the World Festival, the University of Manchester and more. In her spare time, Jennifer is a big fan of lipstick, leopard print and over-ordering at dinner. Follow Jennifer on Instagram, X or LinkedIn.