Using salmon sperm in your skincare may sound absolutely ludicrous, but if you've been questioning the near-flawless faces all over your FYP, it’s highly likely they have been turning to these injectable facials in pursuit of smooth, firm skin.
While the results are tantalizing, the format might be a bit daunting. Luckily, salmon sperm is making its way into our at-home skincare products. Meet PDRN skincare, the buzzy K-beauty ingredient taking over the shelves.
Let's get into it (and whether or not it's actually salmon sperm).
Best at-home PDRN products, at a glance
What is PDRN?
PDRN, or polydeoxyribonucleotide, “are DNA fragments derived from sperm cells of certain trout or, more commonly in skincare, salmon,” says Dermatologist Dr. Melda Isaac. So, yeah, you technically are slathering the sperm of a lil salmon on your face when you use products with PDRN.
But before you swear it off completely, Dr Ifeoma Ejikeme, Skin Specialist, Consultant Physician and Medical Director/Founder of Adonia Medical Clinic, reassures that “the processing is highly refined, so what is used in skincare or injectables is not sperm itself, but a purified, biocompatible product.”
Why sperm, though? “Studies indicate that salmon sperm are the most suitable source for the extraction of highly purified DNA without the risk of impurities due to their low levels of proteins, peptides, and other contaminants compared to other DNA sources,” says Dr. Isaac.
What does PDRN do for skin?
PDRN is fantastic for a lot of skin concerns, mainly regenerating tissue and cell renewal, which helps churn out more resilient, elastic skin that's firmer and smoother. Basically, it can help stimulate collagen production, improve skin texture and tone, make pores look tighter, and reduce fine lines and wrinkles.
To get science-y, "it works primarily by activating adenosine A2A receptors, which are crucial in anti-inflammatory effects," explains Dr. Isaac. It's largely used to "promote cell growth and repair and enhance the skin’s natural healing process, making it an ideal component for post-treatment recovery," she adds. But it can also inhibit melanin production to help reduce hyperpigmentation, making it great for getting rid of acne scars and sun spots.
What's the difference between PDRN facials and at-home products?
The biggest difference between what you get at an office versus topical products at home is concentration and how it is applied. “In-clinic PDRN treatments typically involve injections or delivery methods like microneedling, which place the ingredient directly into the dermis,” says Dr. Ejikeme.
The PDRN that’s injected into your skin during a procedure at a derm’s office is much more concentrated whereas topical products sit more on the surface, so their effect is more supportive rather than comparable to injectable treatments – like Hailey Bieber's favourite Medicube PDRN Collagen Gel Mask.
When it comes to products, Dr. Isaac is pro-PDRN in basically all forms. Most of all, she recommends choosing something that you can be consistent with. "Serums are designed for daily use and long-term maintenance, while masks provide an immediate boost since they are left on the skin longer, allowing ingredients to soak in," she explains.
If adding a PDRN serum, like VT Cosmetics PDRN 100 Essence Serum, to your nighttime skincare routine is easiest, try that (plus it'll usually have added hydrators, like hyaluronic acid, or soothers like niacinamide),” says Dr. Isaac.
Best PDRN serums
Medicube PDRN Pink Peptide Serum
Anua PDRN Hyaluronic Acid 100 +
Rodial Salmon DNA Water-Oil
VT COSMETICS PDRN 100 Essence Intensive Glow Serum
You can also incorporate PDRN into your skincare routine with a moisturiser or weekly mask. Dr. Isaac particularly loves a PDRN sheet mask both in and out of the clinic. “In the treatment room, I think PDRN masks are a great addition to post-laser care as they offer immediate soothing properties and improve downtime or recovery period," she adds.
Best PDRN moisturisers
Medicube PDRN Pink Tone Up Sun Cream
Medicube PDRN Pink Collagen Gel Mask
Glow Recipe PDRN+ Repair + Soothe Korean Toner Pads
It’s also key to keep in mind that PDRN products will also likely differ, both in strength and in how it was manufactured. Dr. Isaac says it's important to consider if the product contains salmon DNA or trout DNA (as this can potentially change the efficacy and strength of results), plus where the salmon is coming from (was it farm-raised or freshly caught from pure streams or rivers, she notes).
How should you use PDRN in a skincare routine?
PDRN is all about boosting your skin’s hydration and rejuvenation, so you will see the best results when using leave-on skincare treatments, like a serum or moisturiser. While every good bookend to your skincare routine should be through a hydrating moisturiser, note that serums are slightly more effective as they have a smaller molecule size so they can penetrate the skin further.
This is why application order matters. As Dr Ejikeme explains, “Topical PDRN products are generally formulated for regular use, often once or twice daily depending on the product. They are usually applied at the serum step, after cleansing and before moisturiser.” You can use PDRN in both your morning and evening routine, but for best results, apply it to slightly damp skin to boost absorption and hydration even further.
Is PDRN safe for sensitive skin?
The best thing about PDRN is that it's gentle and effective for all skin types, including sensitive, notes Dr. Isaac. "It doesn’t strip or over-correct, making it safe across the board," she says. In fact, you can even use it with actives – including retinol, growth factors, AHAs, BHAs, and vitamin C – to help reduce irritation, says Dr. Isaac.
One thing to keep in mind: Proceed with caution if you have a fish or shellfish allergy, Dr. Isaac warns. Talk to your doctor before you start using a product just to be sure it won't cause irritation (and of course, any new product you add into your routine puts you at risk for some irritation, even if you don't think you're allergic to it). There is usually a lot of purification done with these products, but an allergic response could possibly happen, so it's best to be safe.
Do at-home PDRN products work as well as in-clinic treatments?
The short answer is no: in-clinic treatments are professional-grade products, meaning they are far stronger and more effective than the products you will use at home. “The most established data relates to injectable use [as being the most effective form of PDRN delivery], where the ingredient is delivered directly onto the skin,” says Dr. Ejikeme.
As in-clinic treatments are administered by a professional, via an injection or topically to the skin through a laser, this allows for the ingredient to penetrate further into the skin so you will see better results. That being said, at-home formulations are still worth incorporating into your routine. “They still play a role in supporting hydration and skin quality, even though they won’t replicate the same level of delivery or effect,” she adds.
Final thoughts:
While an in-office facial using PDRN might lead to quicker and more noticeable results, at-home topical masks, serums, and creams are also pretty effective and compound results over time. "It truly is one of those rare ingredients that transcends hydration, repair, and renewal universally," says Dr. Isaac.
As for where we'll go with salmon sperm, Dr. Isaac is convinced we're just getting started. “I think there will be increased concentrations of the active ingredients, more combinations of PDRN with other rejuvenating products, and there will be more options in delivery mechanisms, including injections of PDRN into deeper tissues,” she says.
Meet the experts:
- Dr. Melda Isaac is a board-certified dermatologist at MI-Skin Dermatology in Washington, D.C.
- Dr Ifeoma Ejikeme is a Skin Specialist, Consultant Physician and Medical Director/Founder of Adonia Medical Clinic.
Why trust Cosmopolitan?
Beth Gillette is the beauty editor at Cosmopolitan with seven years of experience researching, writing, and editing skincare stories that range from vitamin C serums to butt acne.
Beth Gillette is the beauty editor at Cosmopolitan, where she covers skincare, makeup, hair, nails, and more across digital and print. She can generally be found in bright eyeshadow furiously typing her latest feature or hemming and hawing about a new product you "have to try." Prior to Cosmopolitan, she wrote and edited beauty content as an Editor at The Everygirl for four years. Follow her on Instagram for makeup selfies and a new hair 'do every few months.
Clare Stephenson is the Senior Fashion and Beauty E-commerce Writer for Cosmopolitan, ELLE and Harper’s Bazaar. She has been an e-commerce writer since 2022, creating matter-of-fact reviews and shopping pages filled with her favourite products for every budget and need – whether that’s a glow-giving foundation, a high-tech LED face mask or the perfect wear-with-everything blazer.
Alongside writing, Clare loves to be in front of the camera creating shopping content, putting viral products to the test to see which ones are truly worth the hype. Through her work, she has interviewed leading dermatologists, makeup artists and industry experts to bring readers trusted advice and product recommendations.
Clare has contributed to titles across the Hearst UK portfolio, including Women’s Health, Good Housekeeping, Red and Prima. Prior to joining Hearst, she earned a BA in Multimedia Journalism from Bournemouth University, focusing her studies on magazines and editorial. She later worked as an editorial assistant at Voir Fashion Magazine, covering events including Fashion Week and interviewing notable brand founders.
Outside of work? You can find Clare strolling through London’s Columbia Road Market, pouring her fourth coffee of the day or heading to a Pilates class.
Follow Clare on Instagram @clarefrancesstephenson.
