With winter on the horizon, it’s not just your wardrobe that demands an update, but your skincare routine too. While those of us at Cosmo definitely (repeat: definitely!) don’t advocate for chucking your entire collection out and splurging on replacements, a few strategic swaps and intentional application tips can come in clutch when the cold creeps in and your skin adapts, as a result.
While some changes are clearer than others (flaky skin and redness, anyone?), dehydration is all too common – from the drop in temperature as much as from central heating. “In winter, we lose more water from our skin to the air due to trans-epidermal water loss,” explains Dr Emma Craythorne. “This happens because cold air holds less moisture, which reduces relative humidity.”
Whatever your skin type, we got the low-down from dermatologists on exactly which skincare swaps could combat that inevitable loss of moisture (and often increased sensitivity) this winter…
If you have dry skin...
Hyaluronic acid is a famed hydrator in the skincare world, and incorporating it into your winter regime is as easy as it is essential for those with skin already on the drier side. Look to some of our favourite lightweight serums that are formulated using the humectant.
According to facialist and Skin Matters founder Joanne Evans, application is key for maximising the moisture delivered by the product. “Applying your moisturiser on slightly damp skin can double the hydration effect by aiding penetration,” says Evans.
When working with dry skin in the winter, Dr Craythorne stresses that instead of relying on one hydrating product, layering is equally important. “In very dry air, humectants like hyaluronic acid could draw moisture from the skin rather than the environment. Instead, formulations that include shea butter, squalane or ceramides seal moisture in and nourish the skin more effectively.”
If you have oily skin...
If you’re an oily-skinned girly whose first instinct is to skip moisturiser, listen up. Consultant dermatologist Dr Clare Kiely of The Skin Diary warns that oily skin is still very much in need of hydration in the winter – and actually skipping moisture-boosting steps can trigger more oil production. “Instead, opt for lightweight, non-comedogenic gels or emulsions containing niacinamide or hyaluronic acid.”
Aveeno Face CALM+RESTORE® Oat Gel Moisturiser
Dr Kiely adds that the key is supporting hydration while avoiding heaviness – so put the super occlusive balms and rich night creams down (unless you’re treating specific dry patches)!
If you have combination skin...
Combination skin can be tricky – while you want to up the hydration for drier areas, you’re also avoiding clogging pores in others. “Swap your gel cleanser for a cream, milk or low-foam hydrating one,” suggests Bruce Green, founder of SOS Serum Skincare. This offers a lightweight middle-ground when it comes to cleansing, when other heavier-duty cleansers can promote sebum production and increase the risk of over-cleansing.
Both Joanne and Dr Kiely recommend a ‘zoned approach’ – especially if you find your skin in winter gets drier on the cheeks, but oilier on the T-zone. In short, it’s all about combination (no pun intended); “Multi-moisturising, or treating different areas with different products, is especially helpful,” says Dr Kiely.
Joanne adds that a gentle weekly exfoliation with a PHA or lactic acid-based exfoliator can also help to prevent dullness and congestion without over-drying the skin. All in moderation, people!
Paula's Choice Perfecting 6% Mandelic Acid and 2% Lactic Acid Liquid Exfoliant
If you have acne-prone skin…
By causing dryness and inflammation, cold weather can be a killer for breakout-prone skin. Anyone who’s dealt with acne will know that consistency is key, so keep your trusted blemish-busters and focus on protecting the skin barrier instead. “It’s not about strip, treat, repeat,” advises Kimberley Medd, clinic lead at skincare retailer Face The Future – it’s making some smart swaps across the board (i.e. not just with your products).
As well as opting for non-comedogenic skin-soothers which avoid clogging, Kimberley says that using warm water (rather than hot) when cleansing can keep irritation at bay. Depending on your skin’s sensitivity and the amount of makeup you wear day-to-day, cleansing can be reserved for once daily, so as to not overload and disrupt the skin.
If you have sensitive skin...
Redness comes with sensitive skin year-round, but when the cold adds an extra flush to your cheeks, it’s even less welcome. Joanne looks for soothing and strengthening ingredients like mallow, aloe vera and probiotic ferment extracts, while keeping strong actives and retinols at bay until spring.
As for Dr Kiely, a minimalistic approach is best – a gentle cleanser, soothing serum and barrier-repairing cream are more than enough to reduce sensitivity and deliver a layer of protective hydration to the skin. Note: don't forget to follow up with SPF (even under grey skies) to shield the skin from environmental aggressors. “A cream-based SPF designed for drier skin types is often more suitable in winter than a spray,” says Dr Craythorne.
CeraVe Facial Moisturising Lotion SPF50
Beauty Assistant Urmi works across Cosmopolitan, ELLE, Harper's Bazaar, Red and Prima.
She fell into the world of beauty following a Masters in Magazine Journalism, and has been knee-deep in maximalist makeup, seasonal nail trends, and skincare myth-busting ever since. Both in and outside the office, she is best recognised by her signature red hair and elaborate set of acrylics.
