When it comes to aesthetic beauty treatments, you name it, and it’s likely I’ve tried it at least once. So, when I say that microneedling, specifically Radio Frequency (RF) microneedling should be on your radar, I really mean it. And I’m not the only one who approves, Kim and Khloe Kardashian are big fans, while Lindsay Lohan says she’s ‘obsessed’ with it.
Spoiler alert: it’s a multi-tasking powerhouse of a treatment that targets lines, wrinkles, scarring, texture, tone, skin laxity and even stretch marks - no wonder Lohan has been looking so good. I first tried it many moons ago in an attempt to smooth out my skin texture and keep my jawline looking snatched, and like Kim, Khloe, Lindsay and so many others I’ve been a fan ever since.
RF microneedling explained
But let’s rewind a little. To understand what RF microneedling is exactly, you need to be clued up on all things microneedling. Traditional microneedling, also known as collagen induction therapy, involves rolling or pressing tiny needles into the skin in order to create micro-injuries that trigger the bodies wound healing response. This process involves the production of collagen and elastin, the proteins responsible for the juicy, plump, springy skin most of us want to preserve for as long as humanly possible.
“We use microneedling to treat fine lines, wrinkles, acne scars, surgical scars, enlarged pores, skin texture and tone irregularities and even early signs of skin laxity. It’s minimally invasive, with downtime generally limited to 24-72 hours of redness and mild sensitivity,” explains aesthetic doctor and medical director at Illuminate Skin Clinics, Sophie Shotter. And while this sounds impressive AF, RF microneedling takes things up a notch.
Combining standard microneedling with radiofrequency, devices like Morpheus8, Potenza and Focus Dual, deliver an electromagnetic energy into the middle layer of the skin via the needle tips. “This heats the deeper layers of the skin, to stimulate controlled thermal damage, which triggers even greater collagen and elastin production. This means we can offer greater skin tightening, lifting, and scar revision than with microneedling alone, and in fewer sessions,” adds Shotter.
Is RF microneedling for everyone?
Kind of. All skin tones can benefit from this multi-tasking treatment, which is why I was drawn to it in the first place – since as a beauty editor with a dark skin tone I’m well aware that not all treatments work for melanated skin.
Though Shotter notes, “practitioners do need to be careful on Fitzpatrick skin types IV–VI [deeper skin tones] due to their higher risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.” However, in relation to other treatments like ablative lasers which boast similar results, RF microneedling has a lower risk of making your skin more pigmented than when you started. It's important to see an aesthetic doctor or aesthetic therapist who understands how to adjust energy levels and needle depth to your unique needs as this isn’t a one size fits all kind of treatment.
And while almost everyone can benefit from RF microneedling, anyone with an active skin infection, active acne, eczema, or rosacea should avoid treatment until the condition resolves. But be aware that “if you’ve got a history of keloids, or you’re taking the prescription acne medication isotretinoin, then this isn’t for you,” says Shotter.
How to prep for RF microneedling
Having taken a break from RF microneedling and sticking to traditional microneedling for a couple of years while I tested the newest laser devices, a recent appointment with lead practitioner and founder of Ace Skin Health Clinic, Corina Mihalache, put this gold standard treatment back on my radar.
During my consultation and skin analysis, I shared with Mihalache that I was keen to target what was left of my acne scarring. Previous RF microneedling sessions, laser treatments and dermal filler had made an impressive dent, but any further improvement wouldn’t go amiss. I’d also noticed that I was experiencing a bit of cheek sagging, which she reassured me was normal post-30, since collagen production slows down from the age of 25.
“You’ll see both an immediate glow and over 3-6 months you’ll notice improvements in texture and laxity as each session builds on the last,” she promised. I would started it there and then, but you do have to prep your skin for at least two weeks before you can start.
“During this time, it is important to focus on strengthening the skin barrier. To do this, use serums and moisturisers that contain actives like ceramides, niacinamide and panthenol to strengthen and hydrate the skin. This not only enhances your skin’s resilience, but also improves results and recovery post-treatment,” explains Mihalache.
For those of us with Black and brown skin, she also recommends using a melanin-regulating serum with actives such as kojic acid, cysteamine or tranexamic acid. This helps to reduce the risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. While Shotter adds that you should “avoid retinoids, AHAs/BHAs, chemical peels, vitamin C, self-tanning, waxing and sun exposure. Plus, always wear broad-spectrum SPF 50 to prevent UV-induced inflammation which can sensitise the skin.”
What to expect at your RF microneedling appointment
I’m not the most patient person on the planet, but I spent my prep time diligently applying a personalised prescription blend of tranexamic acid and kojic acid from Roseway Labs every night, and a pump of Murad Cellular Hydration Repair Cream, every morning, and I was really impressed by how good my skin looked using them alone.
At my appointment Mihalache cleansed my face and then applied numbing cream which she left on for 45 minutes before she got started. I’m not going to sugar coat this, RF microneedling can come with a level of discomfort, but it does depend on the settings used, and the device. I’ve had sessions in the past where I’ve had to combine numbing cream with an over-the-counter painkiller. But I barely felt a thing during my first session with Mihalache. There was a bit of a warm sensation and some prickling in the bonier areas of my face, but when compared with ultrasound devices that offer similar results this was a breeze.
I left with a very red face, but that only lasted 24 hours. “The beauty of RF microneedling is that it’s adaptable. For the first session where it’s best to start conservatively with a lower setting, downtime can be as little as 24–48 hours of redness and mild dryness. As you progress with a treatment course, more intensive sessions can result in a week of flaking, scabbing, or peeling. However, generally we can tailor the treatment based on how much recovery time you have and what results you’re after,” says Mihalache. Even lower-intensity sessions can deliver results over time, especially when done as a course.
Treatments should be spaced 4-6 weeks apart and “if you’ve got mild wrinkles or fine lines expect 2-3 sessions. For acne scarring you’ll need up to 6 sessions, while skin laxity or sagging usually requires 3-4 sessions. These should be followed up by 1-2 maintenance sessions per year to help sustain results and support collagen banking to future proof your face,” shares Shotter.
RF microneedling results – Before and after pictures
In a sea of beauty treatments that all promise the world but don’t all deliver, RF microneedling stands out from the crowd. The science is sound, it’s customisable, works for all skin tones, and it delivers noticeable results. After only a few sessions, my scarring is softer, the contours of my face are more defined, my skin feels firmer and my cheeks look a little more youthful. Almost everyone I’ve met since has complemented me on my skin, and I’ve been rocking a glow for weeks – needless to say it’s a thumbs up from me.
