Over the summer season, my skin suddenly erupts with volcanoes (read: cystic acne), for what appears to be no reason at all. It’s never that time of the month and I don’t tend to swap out any skincare but what does always change is the weather. So, is the summer sun the reason I break out?
Winter usually gets a bad rep in the skin department; bitterly cold winds stripping you of any moisture and radiators working in full force to do the same, but I’m starting to think summer is the source of my seasonal acne.
So much as five minutes away from my heroic fan has me sweating way beyond looking like a dewy dumpling – this is more clammy than glam. Pimples take up residency on the side of my nose where my sunglasses sit, and my hot and bothered ruddy cheeks aren’t a lot of fun either. I feel like a dog chasing its own tail, trying to mattify my complexion and keep my makeup from literally melting off my face.
With my spots uncomfortably throbbing and heatwaves imminent, I sought out advice from medical consultant and founder of the Adonia Medical Clinic, Dr Ifeoma Ejikeme, on all of my summer skincare questions.
Why am I breaking out after sweating?
Sweat might not be the most glamorous, but it’s also important to remember we’re only human and sweaty skin is pretty much a given in the heat.
“Increased humidity and heat can lead to more oil production, resulting in a greasier complexion,” says Dr Ejikeme. “Additionally, higher temperatures can cause dilation of blood vessels, leading to redness and flushing. Sweating can also increase, which can both hydrate the skin and potentially lead to clogged pores if not properly cleansed.”
Sounds like the perfect recipe for breakouts, right? Well, that’s exactly what happens. “Sweating can contribute to breakouts by mixing with sebum and dead skin cells, leading to clogged pores. The increased humidity can also create a more favourable environment for bacteria growth on the skin,” believes Ejikeme.
CeraVe CeraVe Foaming Cleanser for Normal to Oily Skin 473ml with Niacinamide and 3 Essential Ceramides
Paula's Choice Calm Ultra-Gentle Cushion Cleanser
Due to said sweaty complexion, I’m also now constantly trying to swipe at that SULA (hello, sweaty upper lip alert) to stop it from forming a puddle whilst I melt on the London Tube – that’s a lot of unwanted bacteria being transferred onto my skin, which is far from ideal.
If you have acne-prone skin to begin with, Dr Ejikeme explains that the heightened temperatures increase your oil production to exacerbate the problem. Turns out summer isn’t all that fun after all.
Should you exfoliate your skin in the summer?
Your first course of action when breaking out may be to pick up an exfoliating AHA or BHA to gently erode the spot, but in the summer, when avoiding UVA/UVB rays is as likely as winning the lottery, exfoliating can be tricky to navigate.
“It’s important to be mindful of the increased sensitivity to sun damage that can occur when using AHAs such as glycolic acid for certain acne treatments,” says Dr Ejikeme. Instead, she recommends, “focusing on adequate cleansing and using non-comedogenic (meaning it won’t lead to pore-clogging) moisturisers] to keep the skin hydrated without clogging pores."
If a spot does occur, Dr Ejikeme recommends opting for a more targeted approach; "Spot treatments containing benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid can also be very useful.”
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REN Clean Skincare Clean Skincare Non-Drying Spot Treatment
As for using a trusted retinol, she advises: “As long as good sun protection occurs during the day, you can continue retinoids during the summer months at night.” So, you can still use your trusted exfoliant to smooth canvases, but just err on the side of caution.
Can your SPF cause you to break out?
If there's one thing we’ve learnt, it’s that SPF is unavoidable, especially during the summertime, but there are also those who believe it’s the root cause of breakouts.
“Wearing SPF more often should not directly lead to breakouts,” believes Dr Ejikeme. “In fact, regular use of sunscreen is crucial for protecting the skin from harmful UV rays and preventing premature ageing. However, certain sunscreens can contain ingredients that might clog pores and potentially contribute to breakouts in individuals with acne-prone skin. It's important to choose non-comedogenic, mattifying or oil-free sunscreens.”
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If you are struggling to find an SPF that works for you, there is a solution. Dr Ejikeme recommends opting for a mineral-based sun cream, rather than a chemical one: “Mineral sunscreens are generally better tolerated by sensitive or acne-prone skin since they are less likely to clog pores.” She also says to look out for “active ingredients like zinc oxide or titanium dioxide that form a physical barrier on the skin, reflecting and scattering UV rays.”
As always, if you’re prone to breakouts, opting for an oil-free, non-comedogenic or even a gel-like texture in products is always a great way to keep spots to a minimum.
Top skincare tips for the summer months
If you’re looking for a cheat sheet, here’s Dr Ejikeme’s top tips for keeping summer breakouts to a minimum:
Thoroughly cleanse: “Cleanse your skin twice daily with a non-comedogenic cleanser to remove excess oil, sweat, and impurities without stripping the skin.”
Do wear: “Lightweight, oil-free, and non-comedogenic moisturisers to provide hydration without adding heaviness or clogging pores.”
Don’t do: “Heavy makeup. This can trap sweat and sebum, potentially leading to breakouts opt for oil free or mineral makeup.”
SPF is a must: “Keep your skin well-protected with a broad-spectrum SPF 50, applying it generously and reapplying every two hours, especially during prolonged sun exposure.”
Look out for: “Products with azelaic acid to help combat inflammation. It can be found at 10% over the counter and prescribed at higher percentages.”
Erborian CC Red Correct Corrector
Charlotte Bitmead (she/her) is the Senior Beauty Writer at Cosmopolitan UK. She has over six years experience writing about beauty and has previously written for ELLE and The Sunday Times Style, covering everything from politics to sustainability to inclusivity within the beauty industry. When she’s not writing in-depth features, testing out the newest skincare fad or trying to decide what nail art to get, you can find her overspending in bookshops or shouting at Arsenal matches. Find her on LinkedIn
