You spent the journey to the salon scrolling through Pinterest and have all but locked in your polish colour or nail art design. You’re booked for BIAB, acrylic nails, or whichever service is your go-to. You’re taking one last lil browse of the colour library when your tech asks, “Same shape and length?” Yep, there’s one more decision to make: which one of the many nail shapes your natural nails or extensions will be filed into.
Whether you’re doing your own mani at home or you’ve booked to have a pro apply your polish at one of the best UK nail salons, the shape of your fresh nails has a big impact on their overall aesthetic. Brat green stiletto nails have a totally different vibe than a short squoval mani in OPI’s Bubble Bath, for example.
So, to help you settle on one, we called on two top manicurists to break down each of the options you have at your fingertips – quite literally. Here are the need-to-knows of the different nail shapes, according to the actual pros. (You didn’t ask, but I’m an almond girlie.)
The most popular nail shapes explained
Round
Round nails are exactly that: a perfectly rounded shape. It’s a pretty low-commitment option, and a curved free edge = less risk of snagging.
Square
Another straightforward nail shape with straight, rather than curved, edges and defined corners. These corners can be softened – ever so slightly – to stop them catching on stuff. A classic.
Oval
Oval looks good on both short and longer nails. It’s similar to round except the curve has a bit more “height”, if you like. “My personal favourite is always what I call an ‘active shape’, so a neat short oval or soft square,” says manicurist Alex Philamond. “You can wear either of these and lead a busy, physical life without fear of them catching or breaking.”
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Squoval
Squoval = square and oval, because that’s exactly what this shape is: a midpoint between the two. Celebrity manicurist Iram Shelton notes it’s her preferred nail shape as it’s both flattering and easy to maintain: “The rounded corners help to prevent breakages and give a clean, classy appearance.”
Almond
Almond nails are hugely popular, tapering off just like an actual almond. They require some degree of length to create the shapely tip. “It’s a beautiful shape that can elongate your fingers and [creates] more of a feminine look,” she says.
Coffin
Coffin nails feature straight, tapered sides with flat tips. The angular shape mimics that of, you guessed it, a coffin, and so it’s another one that requires a fair bit of nail length to create the longer, more angular silhouette.
Ballerina
Ballerina nails look similar to coffin (and they’re sometimes confused for one another) but the sides are softer – a bit like almond nails that have had the tips cut off to create that blunt edge.
Stiletto
Named after the iconic heel, stiletto nails taper into a very sharp point, meaning the shape requires some length. It’s often seen on extra-long nails. It looks great with your classic French tips and offers lots of space for nail art and 3D designs.
Flare
Another popular design right now, flare nails have a flat top edge, rather than coming to a point, and are wider at the base of the nail. Like square nails, they have a more angular appearance and sharper corners, while the tips are usually concave rather than straight.
What nail shape is trending right now?
Still can’t decide? The pros also told us which shapes will remain popular into the new season. “I think short, dark manicures will be huge, and almond is still on top for longer nails,” Iram says. “People are very into classic nail looks and colours, so I think we might be seeing very demure shades and styles [next season].”
“I’m seeing a huge influx of ballerina and tapered square nails, typified by the narrowing of the sides of the free edge,” adds Alex. “The ballerina shape has curved sides, whereas a tapered square looks more like a ‘soft coffin’. These are hugely popular among Japanese and Korean nail trends, which are very much at the forefront of shaping wider-reaching nail aesthetics.”
How to tell what nail shape suits you
We say go with whichever shape you like best. But when choosing one to suit your nail beds and hands, plus your general lifestyle, there are a couple of things to think about.
First is your preferred nail length (including if you’re adding extensions). “Squoval and square are the only shapes I would say are most flattering on shorter nails, as well as round, depending on the client’s nail bed,” Iram explains. “Almond, coffin and stiletto are great for longer nail lengths, with almond being my favourite and my most requested.”
Iram also notes that different shapes suit different people. “Some people have longer nail beds, some don’t,” she says. “For those with longer nail beds, a short nail length might look better as there’s enough nail to make the nails appear longer than they are.” This also applies to nail art space. Iram adds that shorter nail beds can look great with extensions, which can also lengthen the look of the fingers. Just want something simple?
Pro tip: “Trace the perimeter of your natural nail’s free edge and opt for either a soft square if it’s flatter or round if it’s got a prominent curve,” Alex advises. But if you’re still stuck, ask your manicurist for their thoughts. They can judge what will suit your natural nail bed and the length you’re working with. Either way, take this as your sign to book a mani. You deserve it.
