As a beauty lover and writer, I thought I was an expert in spotting counterfeit products (oddly watery sunscreens and unevenly package lip balms, I’m looking at you) but recently I’ve noticed a new wave of fakes: those copying viral staples of Black beauty products. Customers have been duped by everything from edge controls to wig glue, unknowingly risking their hair health, thinking they’d nabbed a bargain.
Fakes used to be something you’d uncover in the deep depths of Facebook Marketplace, or on a dodgy stall at a car boot, but now you’re much more likely to stumble upon a counterfeit product, especially when shopping online. As if we didn’t already face enough challenges, from tools that fail tight curls to products proven ineffective because they were never tested on all skin tones, now we’re being hit by this new threat: a surge in counterfeit products.
A Which? investigation from July 2025 found that at least two thirds (67%) of cosmetics bought from online marketplaces may be counterfeit, leaving consumers at “risk [of] buying untested, unregulated and potentially toxic cosmetics.” And having scrolled through hundreds of testimonies online, it seemed to me that products targeted to and used by people with Afro-textured hair are disproportionately being imitated.
Local beauty shops and online sellers have typically been Black women’s go-to for the biggest range of products, over high street retailers as the latter is only just catching up by broadening their Black beauty offering, but with fakes flooding the market, with dodgy and dangerous ingredients, how can we protect ourselves?
Akanksha Lall, 22, took to TikTok when she realised she had purchased a counterfeit Mielle product from Paks. In the viral video which now has over 242k views, Akanksha compared the curl custard product bought at Paks with one she’d purchased from Boots and noticed a stark different in texture and quality – labelling the one from Boots real and the one purchased at Paks, fake. [We have contacted Paks for comment].
Despite being aware of the rise of fake products, Akanksha never expected to find one at her local beauty store, since she believed Black beauty products are “what they specialise in”.
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She regularly shopped at her local beauty shop for her usual products and had established trust in the store. But after her hair became “weak”, she assumed it was because of other factors, until she looked at the products she was using.
“I compared the consistency of the products … also the packaging, colours and the fonts. The difference was insane. I was shocked,” she said.
Akanksha chose not to make a complaint, or apply for a refund, as it was unlikely she’d get one after using the product, but wanted to warn others of the growing issue of counterfeit products with her video. “I wanted to share that spending a bit more is much better than having the healthiness of your hair stripped away for a discounted price.”
Similarly, Yvonne Oshodi, 36, went viral with a video sharing how to spot fakes after she feltduped by a dodgy curling jelly bought at an online seller. “I used them as I needed the product ASAP and they had it available for next day delivery.”
The curling jelly is a staple in Yvonne’s wash day routine, so she knew it wasn’t legitimate the second it arrived. “I immediately noticed that the colour and texture of the product looked different compared to ones I had previously purchased from Boots – that’s when I became suspicious.”
With a slither of product remaining from her former purchase, Yvonne continued her investigation. “The smell was very strong and artificial, not the subtle marshmallow scent of the original,” she recalls. “The texture was also very watery compared to the original which has a thick jelly-like consistency. Once I applied it to my hair, the product completely dried it out.”
Yvonne spotted discrepancies in the packaging too, noticing that the trademarks, fonts and addresses were different. She raised the issue with Amazon, sharing the evidence she’d collected, and was fully refunded.
In response, an Amazon spokesperson said: “Amazon has a zero-tolerance policy for counterfeit products. We have proactive measures in place to prevent counterfeit products from being listed and continuously monitor our store.”
The way both Akanksha and Yvonne shop has changed. Akanksha would rather take Boots and Superdrug’s trusted, but more limited selection, than risk shopping at her local Black beauty store again.
“It’s unfortunate as sometimes these stores do not have all the products I use in comparison to local hair stores but it’s a compromise I will have to make as I have already endured some damage in my hair due to a fake product.”
Yvonne is cautious of where she buys her hair products, she’d already avoided independent beauty shops amid the rise of fakes but is more wary than ever. “I was lucky the fake didn't do any permanent damage, but I may not be so lucky next time,” she says. “I always shop with trusted retailers now, and I check the packaging a lot more than I did before.”
Hair and Scalp Expert and Consultant Trichologist, Eva Proudman, explains that fake hair care products could indeed ruin your hair and scalp health, as they may well use ingredients that can strip the hair and scalp causing dryness, hair breakage and scalp irritation.
Of course, most of us do still want to support independent businesses, particularly those run by local, Black owners, who have always catered to our community before resorting to retail chains. But, because of the fakes flooding the market (which the owners of the businesses themselves may not even be aware of) it’s vital to clue yourself up on how to spot the real deal. Scanning the ingredients list, as Yvonne did, could save your strands, and Eva shares exactly what you should be looking for.
“All products should be independently tested and certificated and have what is termed a Product Information Folder for any genuine products sold in the UK or EU, this folder details ingredients, manufacturing method, labelling etc. and will be available on a genuine safe product” she tells Cosmopolitan UK. “Having developed products myself I know how important it is to have this validation and would advise anyone who is unsure about the provenance of a product to check.”
The reality is, counterfeit goods are created by criminals who want to catch the consumer out and it’s tricky to know for definite whether a product is a counterfeit without examining and testing it first, making it important for customers to shop through trusted retailers.
For a product like Mielle’s Rosemary Oil – which faced virality and thus was victim to dupes – the award-winning original innovation isn't praised by beauty editors and consumers alike for nothing. It was “carefully formulated and rigorously tested” to benefit textured hair and it’s that layer of care and quality that’s missing from counterfeit versions.
“[We wanted] to give our consumers the healthy, nourished curls they deserve,” Dr Ashley M. Taylor-Jackson, PhD, Hair Education Manager for Mielle Organics explains. “Counterfeit products, on the other hand, are poorly made and may contain untested ingredients that could pose serious risks on your hair and scalp health.”
Richard Knight, Chartered Trading Standards Institute’s Lead Officer for Cosmetic and Beauty, warns that “it’s becoming increasingly difficult for consumers to determine which cosmetics (of all kinds) are genuine and legally compliant.”
Generally speaking, Knight advises consumers to look for a UK name and address on the label and to buy the “UK-compliant variant” that carries the backing of a UK-based Responsible Person, as required under UK Cosmetics Regulation.
He says: “This is crucial should you, say, suffer an adverse reaction and need to report it to the local responsible person.”
If Yvonne and Akanksha have learned anything from their experiences, it’s that shopping from a verified stockist is always best to ensure you’re getting your hands on the genuine product that’s safe for your strands.
How to avoid fake hair products
• Find the verified stockist – Find details of where to find legitimate versions of the product you're looking for by checking their website. Here, you can also find updates on the formula, so you’re fully aware of any authorised changes. The majority ofBlack hair brands, like Mielle and Camille Rose are stocked in verified retailers, like Boots, Superdrug, Look Fantastic and ASOS.
• Buy from brands that care – A Mielle spokesperson tells me that its products are only sold through “retailers that meet [their] standards of quality and trust”. They also confirm that Mielle in particular has your best interests in mind, by “working with law enforcement and customs agencies to identify and seize counterfeit goods in the global supply chain.”
• Check the ingredients list – If you are opting to shop at your local beauty shop, double check the ingredients list and cross reference with what’s listed on the brand’s official website.
• Make sure sellers are authorised – As for online purchases, especially on platforms like Amazon, double-check that the seller is authorised to carry a specific brand’s products. “Look for ‘Dispatches from Amazon, sold by Amazon’, or check the seller's reviews and ratings to check if there have been any complaints or warnings from other buyers,” the Mielle spokesperson suggests.
• And the main takeaway – “If a deal seems too good to be true – like unusually low prices from unfamiliar sellers – it probably is.”
Lauren Gordon is a contributor for Cosmopolitan’s Black Beauty Hub and the Emerging Audiences Editor at The Mirror, where she leads the Under-35s team and serves as the creator-curator of The Gulp, a weekly lifestyle and culture newsletter.
With nearly a decade of experience across leading newsrooms and digital platforms, Lauren’s career in lifestyle and beauty journalism flourished after earning her journalism degree from the University of the Arts London.
