No matter our age, it's always nice to be told we seem younger than we actually are. Whether that be getting ID'd when you're out, or being told you have great skin. But maybe we've been overlooking the power fragrance has on how old we come across.
Scents can have serious connotations with age and youth (I know we all have that one fragrance that reminds us of our grandmas)! According to perfume experts, the right fragrance can immediately bestow an aura of youthfulness.
That ‘instantly youthful’ feeling is rooted in psychology as much as preference. ‘A fragrance that feels youthful, carefree or joyful is largely age-agnostic,’ says Jonny Webber, fragrance expert at Perfume Direct. ‘It’s less about whether you’re 15 or 50, and more about how the structure of the notes creates an immediate mood boost.’
What makes a perfume smell youthful?
The concept of ‘youthful’ fragrance is part of perfumery’s history. ‘There was a clear moment in the 70s when perfumes such as Anaïs Anaïs, Charlie and Diorella were launched in response to younger women wanting to smell ‘modern’ and ‘youthful’, basically the opposite of their mothers who wore Chanel No5 and Guerlain Shalimar,’ says fragrance expert and presenter Alice du Parcq. ‘That association has been a red thread in perfumery ever since, where brands have marketed launches to a younger demographic by using fruity, crisp, citrus and glowy white floral notes.’
‘So when we smell zesty notes (like lemon, mandarin and grapefruit), watery fresh fruit concepts (like watermelon, melon) and ethereal breezy petal accords (like peony, waterlily, lotus flower) our brain connects them with lightness, vitality and energy, which are all feelings symbiotic to youth.’
The youthful M&S fragrance
These zesty notes are what make the M&S Discover Sea Salt & Neroli fragrance so great at giving a youthful aura, as the perfume is enriched with notes of mandarin.
It's not too sweet, though, which is what most people might mistake a 'youthful' fragrance for. Alice explains that salty coastal scents such as this one are a really good example of modern perfumes that feel youthful without being overly sweet.
‘Jo Malone London Wood Sage & Sea Salt, or M&S Discover Sea Salt & Neroli, have cold, crisp and savoury herbal notes to bring freshness and clarity to the blend, and they physically ‘lift’ a perfume upwards. That ‘lift’ brings about a sensation of youth and energy.'
From a neurological point of view, it makes sense. ‘These notes sit at the top of a fragrance and evaporate more quickly,’ says Jonny. ‘They create an instant sense of freshness and energy, and the brain associates them with daylight, cleanliness and the outdoors – which reads as uplifting rather than heavy.’
Which scents instantly lift your mood?
Citrus and green notes are particularly powerful. ‘Bergamot, grapefruit and crisp greens stimulate alertness and optimism in much the same way as fresh air or morning light,’ says Jonny. And it's always nice to escape to a memory of being on holiday, which is where those aquatic and mineral notes come in, as they often trigger associations with open space, which reduces mental load and creates a sense of freedom.
Even softer gourmand notes can feel youthful when used lightly. ‘Vanilla in particular has been shown to lower stress responses and create comfort,’ Jonny explains. ‘It taps into early scent memories – sweets, lip glosses, first fragrances – which the brain reads as playful and safe.’
Does how you wear it matter?
Yes, the way you apply your fragrance plays a role in creating a ‘youthful’ scent aura. ‘Lighter concentrations, skin scents and thoughtful layering keep fragrances feeling fresh rather than dense,’ says Jonny. Eau de toilettes, colognes, light spritzing and even hair mists allow those bright, youthful notes to shine.
Memory matters more than rules
All that said, what smells ‘youthful’ to each of us is deeply personal. How young a scent may seem will completely depend on what they remind you of – holidays, getting ready with friends or a favourite early perfume. As Sabah puts it: ‘Universal scent psychology sets the stage, but autobiographical memory turns the volume up or down.’
Alice agrees: ‘Our own “perceptions” of a smell are so individual to our own upbringing and cultural memories. You can’t dictate that or predict it, so it’s the one area in the beauty industry that brands can’t control.'
‘This is what makes perfume an art form, like a piece of music or a painting,’ she says. ‘You cannot manipulate someone’s smell perception and instruct them to like it, because fragrance is wild and unboxable. I think that’s pretty cool!’
The best ‘youthful’ fragrances according to the experts
Sabah Karimi’s top fragrance picks
Glossier You ‘for its soft, ambrette-led skin vibe’.
Phlur Missing Person ‘captures that intimate just-showered aura’.
Jo Malone London Wood Sage & Sea Salt ‘offers breezy mineral and green brightness’.
Jo Malon Wood Sage & Sea Salt Cologne
Jonny Webber’s top fragrance picks
Gucci Bloom Eau de Toilette is ‘airy white florals with a modern lift’.
Hermès Un Jardin Sur Le Toit ‘because of the open-air freshness’.
Chloé Eau de Parfum: ‘Peony, rose and lychee give a light, floral waft.’
Hermès Un Jardin Sur Le Toit
Charley Williams-Howitt has over 20 years of experience working in the beauty industry. Starting her career in the fashion cupboard at Cosmopolitan magazine, she eventually escaped the piles of clothes to discover a world of makeup, moisturizers, and models. Her journey has since been filled with interviewing celebrities and industry icons, reporting backstage at Fashion Weeks, shooting beauty editorial, obsessively trying to find the best fake tan, and scrutinizing the ingredients in anything she's testing. Charley loves walks with her sausage dog, Pinteresting just about everything, and shopping. You can take a girl out of a fashion cupboard, but you can't keep her out of Zara.
Beauty Director Lynne has spent the past two decades testing and reviewing the latest in everything from skincare and aesthetics to spas, fragrance and makeup. When she's not being a human guinea pig she loves to immerse herself in a deep bath, a good book and large glass of iced rosé.
