There’s no doubt about it, ingrown hairs and razor bumps can be a pain. From the moment you step out of your ‘everything shower’, these pesky bumps and irritated areas can send your skin into chaos, causing hyperpigmentation, irritation, inflammation and much more if left untreated.
In a bid to keep your beauty routine ingrown-and-razor-bump-free, here’s everything you need to know about them, how to treat them and most importantly, how to prevent them from making a comeback.
What are ingrown hairs?
Ok so first things first, according to medical consultant Dr Ifeoma Ejikeme, ingrown hairs occur when the hair curls back or grows sideways into the skin, rather than exiting the follicle, triggering inflammation, often resulting in raised bumps, discomfort or secondary infection.
Why Black skin is more affected?
Well, it has a lot to do with your hair type, as curly and coily hair types are more prone due to the “natural curve” of the hair shaft. “This increases the likelihood of re-entry into the skin after shaving or waxing and occurs more commonly when hairs are shaved, waxed or plucked,” Dr Ejikeme explains.
From then on, the trapped hair irritates the skin, leading to inflammation and persistent itchy lumps and bumps. Ouch. These can be triggered by the pigment producing cells in the skin, called melanocytes or fibroblasts, the cells in the skin which produce collagen. Consultant dermatologist at Skin Surgery Associates of London, Dr Jonathan Kentley, shares that each can cause havoc in a number of ways, from scarring to long-term irritation, when inflamed.
“Melanocytes are often very sensitive to irritation and inflammation, sending them into overdrive leading to post inflammatory pigmentation which can often last for months,” he explains. “Whereas fibroblasts can also be highly reactive to inflammation, making individuals prone to scarring and keloid formation following ingrown hairs; this leads to conditions known as pseudofolliculitis barbae and acne keloidalis nuchae.”
Dr Ejikeme details that inflammation from ingrown hairs can lead to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). Repeated trauma can also result in long-term textural changes to the skin. Treatment must be well thought out and barrier-supportive to reduce the risk of pigment disruption or scarring.
How to treat ingrown hairs safely at home
Now, I’m going to need you to put down the harsh scrubs when treating ingrown hairs safely at home. All you’ll need are three gentle ingredients that’ll help to calm irritation and soothe inflammation, while gently exfoliating the skin.
Both doctors recommend azelaic acid and salicylic acid for clearing the pores from the inside out, in a bid to release the trapped hairs, while also calming the bumps and reducing the risk of post inflammatory pigmentation. Dr Ejikeme also recommends niacinamide to supports barrier function and help fade dark marks.
The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10
CeraVe SA Smoothing Cream for Rough and Bumpy Skin
nip+fab Nip+Fab Salicylic Fix Night Pads 80ml
ESTRID Estrid Starter Kit - Steel Razor + 2 * 5 blade Refill + Wall holder Razor for Body, Vegan, For sensitive skin, 2 refill cartridges (Cloud)
Kiehl's Ultra Pure High-Potency Serum 5.0% Niacinamide
The INKEY List Glycolic Acid Exfoliating Body Stick
Regular use of glycolic acid could be useful according to Dr Kentley, as it “helps by dissolving the layer of dead skin cells that can trap a new hair and increases the speed of skin turnover which may help reduce pigmentation.”
As tempting as it may be, when treating ingrown hairs and razor bumps, it’s best to avoid picking, squeezing or scratching the area to prevent infection and scarring. You may also want to avoid shaving, and if necessary, make sure you’re not using a dull razor.
Prevention tips
Treatment for ingrown hairs and razor bumps is simple, but prevention can save you from the discomfort of having them. If you prefer shaving, Dr Ejikeme recommends using a clean single-blade razor and to follow the direction of the hair growth, never against it.
Dr Kentley advises softening the hair first with warm water, or even better, “shave straight after the shower and make fewer passes for less skin barrier damage and less risk of ingrown hairs.”
There are more shaving foams, gels and creams on the market than ever, but Dr Ejikeme says all you need is a moisturising, non-foaming gel or cream to help get a clean cut. On the days when you aren’t shaving, gentle exfoliation should be part of your routine to keep the follicles clean and clear.
“With waxing, the aim is to limit the inflammation that follows the hair being removed from the root,” Dr Kentley shares. Make use of a good, light chemical exfoliants like glycolic acid and use these 1-2 times a week to reduce the chance of an ingrown hair forming.
Dr Ejikeme warns against waxing over broken or inflamed skin, no matter how brave you’re feeling, the pain isn’t worth it, nor is the likelihood of ingrown hairs from doing so. On the flip side, she champions laser hair removal to reduce ingrown hairs long term, but if done with the right device for your skin tone. In fact, dermatologists often recommend laser hair removal for patients with skin problems driven by ingrown hairs and resulting inflammation.
Choosing a clinic that is experienced in treating darker, richly pigmented skin tones is crucial, as “using the wrong wavelength can lead to burning and pigmentary issues, or even worse scarring,” Dr Kentley warns, while Dr Ejikeme encourages those with darker skin tones to use Nd:YAG laser only, “as it is safer and targets the follicle without damaging surrounding pigment.”
When to see a pro
You may be a DIY girlie but there comes a point when it’s time to put your health - and skin - first. If ingrown hairs become painful, lead to scarring or infection, or persist for several weeks, it’s time to see your GP.
You may even experience pus or significant redness, or your pigmentation causes distress, these are all signs to get on the phone to your doctor and seek professional advice for next steps. From then on, a dermatologist can prescribe targeted treatment, manage marks safely and guide you toward the most suitable long term hair removal approach for your skin.
And it’s not all physical, Dr Ejikeme highlights that pigmentation or texture changes that develop could impact your confidence or quality of life and this should absolutely be raised with a health care professional or at a clinic like Adonia Medical Clinic, which has experts trained in Black skin and has more devices and solutions than any clinic in the UK for Black skin.
Lauren Gordon is a contributor for Cosmopolitan’s Black Beauty Hub and the Emerging Audiences Editor at The Mirror, where she leads the Under-35s team and serves as the creator-curator of The Gulp, a weekly lifestyle and culture newsletter.
With nearly a decade of experience across leading newsrooms and digital platforms, Lauren’s career in lifestyle and beauty journalism flourished after earning her journalism degree from the University of the Arts London.
