Type ‘the art of layering’ into a search bar, and you may be met with detailed how-to lessons on anything from necklaces to perfume, clothes and cakes, to lasagne (our advice? you can never have too much cheese). But come the summer, there's one particular category that has us hooked, and that's makeup. Let's face it, this. is. an. art, even more so when external factors like sweat and humidity can play havoc. It can be tempting to avoid glow-giving formulas and apply thick, matte coverage, packing on the powder in the hope everything will stay put - but actually, doing the opposite is the way to help your makeup go the distance. If you're clever with textures and lightly layer your products, cakey makeup will soon be a distant memory.
Step 1: Prep
We’re sure you’ve heard the phrase ‘great makeup starts with great skincare,’ so first, let’s talk prep. In the summer, I’d recommend switching out heavier formulas in favour of weightless hydrating layers, active serums and a lightweight SPF. Makeup artist Nam Vo, who has become famous for her “dewy dumpling” glow, explains that the way you apply summer skincare is equally as important. “When people do their morning skincare routine, they’re barely working it into the skin and letting it absorb and that’s when it starts to layer and peel. You need to really push and massage it into the skin, leaving less surface residue, which can lead to makeup looking cakey when applied on top.” Remember: serum, then moisturiser, then SPF.
RoC Skincare Multi Correxion Hydrate and Plump Daily Moisturizer (Spf 30) 50ml
Step 2: Prime
Once your skincare is locked and loaded, it’s time to reach for a primer, a non-negotiable step for makeup artist Thembi Mkandla, who recently worked her magic on Leomie Anderson and Mel B in the 35°C Zimbabwean heat.
“Because we’re dealing with hotter climates, the skin and makeup are going to act differently. The added layer of a primer will give extra security that your makeup isn’t going to go patchy or simply slide off. It’s also at this point that I can cater to different skin types. For example, for oily skin, it’s important to still hydrate with skincare but use an oil-controlling matte primer in the areas it’s needed.” If you’re planning to wear eyeshadow, my top tip is to also sweep a small amount of formula across the eyelids.
Milk Makeup Hydro Grip Primer 45ml
Huda Beauty Easy Blur Primer 30ml
Step 3: Longwear base
Training as a makeup artist before entering beauty writing means I now count wedding makeup as my side hustle, and I’ve done my fair share of summer weddings, with one in Tuscany on the horizon. So I’m well aware that once the prep is done, it’s super important to pick the correct formula for your base, and there’s a specific key word to look out for.
Vo and I agree that although serum foundations can be great, they often don’t perform in heat because they just slip off. Longwear formulas grip to the skin and stay there, and often a little goes a long way. When the heat is on, Mkandla follows the same practice. “I would always go for lighter textures with a longwear formula. To ensure it doesn’t look cakey, apply thin layers with a dense brush or beauty blender to build to your desired coverage.” It may feel counterintuitive to apply cream formulations when it’s roasting outside, but you might be surprised. “As strange as it sounds, cream textures that sit with the skin rather than powder textures that often appear to float are more forgiving when it comes to heatproof makeup,” explains celebrity makeup artist Neil Young, who counts Nicola Coughlan and Sarah Jessica Parker as clientele.
Urban Decay Face Bond Foundation
Step 4: Set
For the cherry on top of your non-cakey creation, don’t forget to spritz and set. “One of my best tips is to spray your face with a hydrating setting spray in between your base layers, drying with a hand-held fan each time,” says Mkandla. “Then, at the end of your makeup, lock it all in place with a fixing spray. I've been using the L'Oréal Infallible and your look does not budge.”
MAC Fix+ Original Setting Spray 100ml
Psst... talking textures
Consider mixing and matching the texture of products that you’re layering for better hold. “For example, a cream blush layered with its powder counterpart on top gives the finish of a cream with the longevity of powder, yet leaves the complexion looking hydrated and radiant,” celebrity makeup artist Neil Young says.
Maybelline Sunkisser Liquid Glow Blush with Vitamin E
MERIT BEAUTY Flush Balm Cream
MAKEUP BY MARIO Soft Sculpt Transforming Skin Enhancer
KOSAS The Sun Show Glowy Warmth Talc-Free Baked Bronzer 6g
Lia Mappoura (she/her) is the Beauty Writer at Cosmopolitan UK, with over four years of experience reporting across the brand's print, social, video and digital platforms. Lia covers everything from emerging trend analysis to viral celebrity hair and makeup moments, making her an expert at spotting the season’s next big beauty look (before it takes over social media feeds).
In 2025, she was named The Rising Media Star at the Love Perfume Awards with The Perfume Shop, recognised for her outstanding digital fragrance content and for building genuine authority within the space. She is passionate about challenging outdated beauty stereotypes, championing inclusive representation in beauty, and educating readers on the trends, products and conversations shaping the industry today. Follow her on Instagram or find her on LinkedIn.
