Consider your hair porosity
"Hair porosity and density play a significant role in how your hair absorbs and feels while using an oil," says hairstylist Jasmine "Jazzee" Green. We have an all-you-need-to-know hair porosity guide, but as a general rule of thumb, know this: Hair porosity means how well your hair absorbs and retains moisture, and this all depends on the structure of your hair cuticle—i.e., how "open" or "closed" your cuticle is.
To make it even a little more confusing, your curl type (3a-3c) or coil type (4a-4c) is totally separate from your hair porosity. For example, one person's 4b hair may need something totally different than another person's 4b hair. Let's break down each porosity with recommendations from Green...
High-porosity hair
Your cuticles are open and raised; moisture absorbs quickly, but it leaves just as fast. Use a fatty, heavier oil throughout your hair, Green explains, adding that these oils are thick enough to hold on to your hair shaft and not dissipate too quickly. Because your hair craves moisture, heavier oils won't leave it feeling weighed down or greasy. "Castor oil, coconut oil, olive oil, avocado oil, or even shea butter are best for high porosity hair," says Green.
Medium-porosity hair
Your cuticles are spaced normally; moisture can come and leave at a balanced rate. Green says medium-porosity hair can have the best of all worlds in terms of oils. "These hair types will have good results with most oils," she says, adding that specifically, she has found black seed oil or grape seed oils to work well.
Low-porosity hair
Your cuticles are tight; it's difficult for moisture to enter your hair shaft, but once it does, your hair will retain it extremely well. "To lock in moisture, enhance curl definition, or decrease frizz, an oil that is light in texture will offer the best results. Jojoba oil, sweet almond oil, or argan oil are best for low-porosity hair, Green says.
Know when to apply oils in your routine
"There is no oil in the world that will make your hair feel soft and supple or look shiny and healthy if you are in need of a haircut," says Green, adding that the only remedy for dry, brittle split ends is to cut them off. That being said, you can incorporate oils at specific times in your haircare routine to protect your hair from split ends and maintain your curl shape.
- For moisture and curl definition, Green recommends pairing the oils with styling cream, gel, or mousse for added curl definition. If you want to maximize the moisture benefits, "do a hot oil treatment weekly or biweekly," she says. You can also add oils to your deep conditioning treatment or even blow oils into your hair as part of preparation for a protective style.
- For scalp health and hair growth, Green loves a pre-poo or overnight treatment. No, oil won't make your hair magically regrow overnight, but it can moisturize your scalp and hair cuticle to create the right environment for hair growth. And while most oils that claim to give you longer, thicker hair aren't backed by science, right now, a 2023 study shows promising hair growth results with rosemary oil. Green says to make sure you dilute the rosemary oil as it can cause irritation, or to make it easier, just buy an oil with rosemary oil already mixed into the formula.
Quick PSA(s): If you're using all these heavy oils—with some that may contain silicones—you're going to run into product buildup, particularly so if you have low-porosity hair. Make sure to cleanse on a normal schedule, depending on your hair type.