Although it might sound absurd, it's not totally off-the-cuff to get the "did you just get lip filler?" question in my world. I'm a beauty editor who regularly tests cosmetic procedures like Botox, fillers, lasers, and chemical peels for my job. Yet my lips have been looking so ~juicy and full~ lately that it's happening more than ever, and everyone seems to be wholly shocked when I say, "nope, no lip fillers here." Honestly, my natural lips, generally, were always the opposite of full (my upper lip specifically). But I do get where they're coming from: My lips do look bigger lately, and it's not just a quick swipe of lip-plumping gloss or some overlined lip liner that's the cause.
For two years, I've reimagined my lip plumper collection, getting rid of anything that sting or burns and, instead, grabbing for hydrating, softening formulas. But upon further research, those lip treatments have actually helped plump up my lips over time—and it's all thanks to this super-cool new ingredient inside called Maxi-Lip. I consulted some experts (including dermatologists, plastic surgeons, and cosmetic chemists) to explain how exactly this ingredient has given me bigger lips sans injections. And if you're intrigued to try it for yourself, keep reading for my experience, including a pretty telling before-and-after.
What is Maxi-Lip?
In true ~journalistic fashion~, I went right to the source to uncover what exactly Maxi-Lip is. This ingredient was created by Croda Beauty, a beauty innovation company that develops new ingredient blends—often using biotech—and sells them to brands to include in their formulas. Maxi-Lip is “a patented, biomimetic peptide complex designed to enhance lip volume, hydration, and contour," says cosmetic chemist Krupa Koestline. It's comprised of emollient-rich ethylhexyl palmitate and tribehenin, as well as emulsifying sorbitan osostearate—but the hero is palmitoyl tripeptide-1, a synthetic peptide which firms, conditions, and increases cellular turnover.
Guaranteed you already know about peptides if you're into skincare. It's lauded as one of the best anti-aging ingredients because it encourages collagen production in your skin to help plump up skin to reduce the look of fine lines and wrinkles as well as increases elasticity so your skin is plump and bouncy. When incorporated into lip products—remember, your lips are skin—peptides work to improve the same concerns, all while producing a plumping effect over time. But let's get into the science-y details...
How does Maxi-Lip work?
“Maxi-Lip works by mimicking the body’s own peptide signals to stimulate the synthesis of collagen and glycosaminoglycans in the lips,” explains Koestline. (Glycosaminoglycans—also known as GAG—are sugar molecules that enhance collagen synthesis and bind water to your skin, FYI.) “This not only increases lip volume but also improves the lip texture and moisture retention," she adds.
Plumping agents from years past usually contained bee venom, chili pepper, or menthol. These additives would create an inflammatory reaction which momentarily plumped lips (while drying out your skin in the process), explains plastic surgeon Melissa Doft, MD. On the contrary, "Maxi-Lip plumps by drawing in hydration and increasing collagen so that the lips appear firmer,” she explains. So instead of a "short-lived tingle" as Koestline puts it, products with Maxi-Lip actually do make your lips a bit fuller over time.
Dermatologist Maryam Saffaee, MD, mentions that she regularly recommends products made with Maxi-Lip to patients who are seeking lip-filler alternatives as well as those hoping to reduce signs of aging on their lips. “With regular application, Maxi-Lip can offer visible improvements in softness, shape, and fullness—making it an excellent anti-aging lip solution for daily use,” she says.
So, can Maxi-Lip increase lip volume long term?
According to Croma Beauty's clinical trials, Maxi-Lip helped increase lip volume by 40 percent, improved hydration, reduced fine lines, and made lips softer. But keep in mind: These trials were completed by applying the product three times a day for 29 days straight, which isn't how most people use a lip plumper. But...
My experience:
I've been, unknowingly, applying lip products that contain Maxi-Lip daily for about two years. Reading over the results of the trials made me believe that my initial suspicion about Maxi-Lip permanently plumping my lips was correct—and every expert I spoke with confirmed it. “Yes, Maxi-Lip can create a long-lasting visible enhancement that persists beyond each use, especially if you are applying it several times a day,” says Dr. Saffaee.
I use a combo of different products containing Maxi-Lip, including lip masks, lip balms, and lip glosses. Overnight, I'll swipe on the Lawless Forget the Filler Lip Plumping Mask, which helps lock in moisture overnight and loads my lips with plumping peptides. Consider it like smoothing on an anti-aging peptide serum at night. During the day, I oscillate between The Outset Lip Oasis Treatment (a super glossy balm that's packed with hydrating, smoothing ingredients) and a mix of lip plumpers that both immediately make my lips look bigger and plump 'em up over time. My current faves are Maybelline Lifter Plump Gloss, which comes in a range of sheer shades, and Sara Happ The Lip Plumper, when I want a clear formula.
Final verdict:
Now that I know that Maxi-Lip is pretty much a pain- and needle-free lip filler substitute, I'll never stop swiping on my favorite formulas. Keep in mind that Maxi-Lip “does not change the anatomy of the lip, but it allows you to maintain a steady collagen boosted state that can mimic a permanent look,” Dr. Saffaee adds. This means that regular Maxi-Lip application helps your lips continuously produce collagen, which results in a fuller, more voluminous appearance long term. Buuut if you want to make your cupid's bow look like Lana Del Rey's or make your lips more symmetrical, you'll need to make an appointment with a derm or plastic surgeon for filler unfortch. But it will give you fuller lips without spending a ton of money or, you know, getting jabbed.
Meet the experts:
- Krupa Koestline is a clean cosmetic chemist and founder of KKT Labs. She has developed formulas for brands like Peach & Lily, Kopari, Tower28, and more.
- Melissa Doft, MD, is a board-certified plastic surgeon and founder of Doft Plastic Surgery in New York. She specializes in surgical procedures as well as non-invasive treatments like Botox, lasers, and chemical peels.
- Maryam Saffaee, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist based in Los Angeles. She takes a holistic approach to skincare, marrying skin health with internal wellness.
Why trust Cosmopolitan?
Mary Honkus is a contributing beauty editor at Cosmopolitan with over seven years of experience researching, writing, and editing beauty stories, including rounding up the best wedding perfumes and testing out the most innovative at-home skin tools. She’s an authority in all beauty categories, and particularly enjoys researching buzzy ingredients. After suspecting that Maxi-Lip may be the reason for her enhanced lip volume, she consulted with leading industry experts to learn all about the ingredient and give you a comprehensive understanding of how the ingredient functions.
