- Perfumes are traditionally classified into four main scent families—fresh, floral, woody, and amber—each evoking distinct moods and emotions, as outlined by the fragrance wheel created in 1983.
- Over time, the perfume industry has expanded beyond these categories, giving rise to popular sub-families like gourmand, fruity, musky, and spicy, which reflect modern tastes and experimentation.
- While the fragrance wheel serves as a helpful guide, finding a signature scent is ultimately a personal journey shaped by mood, individuality, and exploration across different families.
You're probably familiar with floral perfumes—hello, rose is the GOAT of scent notes—and have most likely caught a whiff of a yummy gourmand (pretty much anything with vanilla in it). But there are so many more categories to sniff, and knowing the scent families you enjoy is key to finding your signature scent.
That's where knowing a little bit about each type of perfume is so important. "Each scent family carries its own peculiarities and distinct nuances—the green snap of a fougère, the creamy glow of an amber, the sunlit bouquet of a floral, or the zest of a citrus," says Paul Guerlain, perfumer at IFF. "But what makes perfumery extraordinary is the ability to reimagine and develop each into something utterly unique." Let's break it all down.
The four main scent categories
Brief history lesson for ya: Back in 1983, British scent evaluator Michael Edwards developed the fragrance wheel to classify the different scent families and create a visual guide to showcase how each category is related to one another. Consider it like a color wheel, but for your nose.
The wheel features four main categories: Fresh, floral, woody, and amber, along with subcategories within each. "Each scent family is crafted to elicit distinct emotional responses, from radiance and freshness to warmth and allure, so individuals can select fragrances to match their moods or intentions," explains Guerlain. Functional fragrance isn't as new as you think, actually.
Since the inception of the fragrance wheel, the perfume industry has expanded to include new categories that don't quite fit into the initial choices outlined on the wheel. Because of this, perfumers don't rely on the wheel as closely as they used to. That said, it still serves as the backbone of perfumery and can help guide fragrance fanatics to discovering their new signature.
Fresh
This category is pretty broad, tbh. The fresh family encompasses all the citrus, aquatic, and grassy (or, as the French call it, fougère) scents. "Fresh fragrances tend to smell clean, invigorating, and uplifting—often evoking a sense of energy, vitality, and clarity," says Guerlain. "These scents are commonly associated with feelings of renewal and brightness."
Common notes: Bergamot, grapefruit, ozonic air, rain, oakmoss, herbs
Floral
Many of the world's most iconic perfumes fall into this category. (There's literally too many to count, but Dior Miss Dior, Marc Jacobs Daisy, and Gucci Flora Gardenia Gorgeous all come to mind.) Like the name suggests, floral fragrances feature notes of blooming flowers. "They are typically perceived as romantic, delicate, and soft, often meant to evoke emotions of happiness, delicate sensuality, and grace," says Guerlain. Sometimes these can smell powdery and soft, while others (like white florals) are creamy and more tropical.
Common notes: Rose, jasmine, lily, gardenia, orange blossom, lavender, peony
Woody
Yes, woody fragrances do, in fact, run the gamut of wood notes (duh). But on a more nuanced level, this fragrance category explores deeper, warmer scent profiles that aren't often associated with the fresh and floral families. "Woody scents are recognized for their earthy, grounding qualities, bringing about sensations of calm, stability, and sophistication," Guerlain explains. Woods also form the base of many fragrances because of their heavier nature that rounds out an olfactive experience.
Common notes: Sandalwood, cedar, vetiver, patchouli, oud, pine
Amber
Ambery, warm perfumes have gone through a renaissance in recent years. But it actually got its start in the 16th century. French perfumers would source spices, resins, vanilla, and amber from the Middle East and Asia to create. Guerlain says that amber perfumes are "characterized by warm, sensual, and exotic aromas that create an aura of mystery, intensity, and opulence."
Common notes: Amber, vanilla, cinnamon, incense, benzoin, tobacco, tonka
The fragrance industry shift: Micro scent families
If there's anything we've learned since the start of the perfume boom, it's that scent is fluid, and more often than not, it's difficult to categorize any perfume into one tiny box. And although the original fragrance wheel included a variety of subcategories that melded into the four main families, those subcategories have become even more vast. It's impossible to list every single one, but the following four are currently dominating the industry.
Gourmand
Gourmand scents are categorized by their confectionery edible notes reminiscent of bakeries and pastry shops. Unlike other sub-categories, we actually have record of the exact fragrance that is considered to be the first-ever gourmand: Mugler Angel. This syrupy, sweet scent launched in 1992 and was the first of its kind to feature an array of edible notes. Think: Honey, caramel, and chocolate. Since then, the gourmand mini-family has developed into one of the most popular fragrance categories of all time.
Common notes: Vanilla, chocolate, pistachio, whipped cream, praline, marshmallow, coffee
Fruity
Much like floral perfumes, fruity scents are instantly recognizable thanks to their juicy, fruit accords. Depending on the fruit used, perfumers are able to create extremely different vibes. For something bright, experts usually call upon citrus fruits, like lemon and orange. When the goal is to create a sultry perfume, stone fruits—hi, cherry, plum, and peach—offer a sensual succulence. Then, of course, tropical fruits, including mango, pineapple, and coconut, create a transportative aroma that will have you feeling like you're in a foreign land.
Common notes: Raspberry, cherry, peach, pinapple, mango, orange, apricot, fig
Musky
Guerlain calls the musky category one of the newest sub-families to watch. Thanks to a surge in musky, second-skin scents, we're seeing more perfumes that aim to replicate a mix of animalic and clean musk scents that give the illusion that you, rather than your perfume, smells amazing.
Common notes: Musk, orris, ambrette, angelica root, ambroxan
Spicy
An offshoot of the amber family, spicy scents have been pushing the boundaries of perfumery by utilizing a variety of spices that tickle your nose and give the wearer an energetic rush. The notes in these perfumes often read like the items in your spice cabinet and are then grounded in a woody base.
Common notes: Clove, cardamom, black pepper, pink pepper, saffron, ginger
The bottom line
The fragrance wheel created a guidepost for perfumers—and now the public—to create scents and learn what aromas speak to them. As technology has developed and people have become more experimental with perfume, new scent families continue to emerge.
Ultimately, the wheel can help you discover what you like and gravitate towards. "Each family evokes a different mood: Fresh for clarity and energy, floral for elegance, woody for depth, amber for warmth," says Guerlain. "The wheel and its categories are a starting point, but the true verdict comes from wearing the fragrance and letting it become part of your story—where craftsmanship, tradition, and individuality meet on your skin."
But as always, this should only be a guide, not a rule. Don't be afraid to experiment within an array of scent families to find the scent that feels the most like you.
Meet the expert:
- Paul Guerlain is a perfumer at IFF and has helped developed perfumes for iconic brands like Amouage, Valentino, Penhaligon's, and Dries van Noten.
Why Trust Cosmopolitan?
Mary Honkus is a beauty contributor for Cosmopolitan with over seven years of experience researching, writing, and editing beauty stories, including a definitive list on the best celebrity perfumes, and a full explainer on the most expensive note in perfumery. She is an authority in all beauty categories, but has a sweet spot for fragrance with a collection of over 300 scents.
