If it feels like everyone on TikTok is suddenly strapping on an LED mask, you’re not imagining it. Red light therapy has officially gone mainstream (even my mom texted me to ask what the heck those "creepy robot-looking light masks" on Instagram were). But viral doesn’t always mean vetted. As a beauty editor, I see buzzy devices like microcurrent and high frequency on my feeds long before anyone even understands what the heck they do.
Case in point? At-home LED tools, which now come in every color imaginable—red, blue, green, amber, even purple—each claiming a different skincare benefit. The problem is that not all wavelengths are equally effective, and only a few are consistently backed by real scientific research. Before adding just any mask to your cart, it’s worth knowing which light actually works and how (and if the goals you have are actually achievable).
Spoiler: Dermatologists do overwhelmingly agree that red light is the gold standard. “Low-level therapy devices that emit red light and infrared light are the most effective option for skin rejuvenation and wound healing,” says dermatologist Heather Rogers, MD. But how exactly does it work and what can it realistically do for your skin? Answers ahead.
Benefits of red light therapy:
- Boosts collagen and elastin to potentially smooth and prevent fine lines and wrinkles over time
- Increased collagen can help reduce the appearance of scarring and dark spots
- Soothe irritation and decrease inflammation
- Accelerates wound healing
- Increases blood flow, which may help with hair growth
More scientifically, yes, red light therapy has a ton of beauty benefits. But the science behind how it works is a bit technical. “When exposed to red and infrared wavelengths, the cells in our bodies absorb energy from the light, become more efficient in their use of oxygen, and are better able to make cell fuel, or ATP," says Dr. Rogers. "With more ATP, cells become more active and better at doing their jobs, whether that be DNA repair, cell turnover, collagen production, or calming inflammation,” she explains.
Because red light therapy promotes cellular turnover and collagen production, it’s able to “minimize the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, acne scars, and other skin texture concerns,” says dermatologist Dendy Engelman, MD. “It also holds anti-inflammatory properties to reduce puffiness and calm irritated skin,” she says.
As for hair growth, red light therapy can help increase cell turnover, stimulate blood flow and circulation, and create an optimal environment to encourage healthy hair growth, explains Dr. Engelman.
What’s the difference between red and infrared light?
Many popular red light therapy and LED devices utilize the benefits of both red and infrared light. “Red light focuses on cell turnover in the dermis and epidermis, addressing skin tone, texture, fine lines, and wrinkles, while near-infrared light penetrates deeper than red light, targeting circulation and inflammation in deeper tissues,” explains Dr. Engelman. “These two are often used synergistically in many red light therapy devices to provide a comprehensive treatment that targets multiple concerns at once,” she adds.
What’s the best red light therapy device?
There are so many different red light therapy devices to choose from, including LED face mask, wands, panels, and helmets. Dr. Rogers is a fan of Omnilux and Celluma (she prefers full face or the large panel devices over handheld ones to ensure the area you’re using it on receives uniform treatment), while Dr. Engelman likes the Solawave Wand and Dr. Dennis Gross's SpectraLite Mask.
“The Solawave Wand is a fantastic handheld, travel-friendly device that uses red light therapy, galvanic current, massage, and gentle warmth to address a number of skin concerns,” says Dr. Engelman. “Dr. Dennis Gross SpectraLite Mask is another FDA-cleared, clinically-proven device that strategically applies red and blue light combination therapy to address both acne and anti-aging concerns. I love its hands-free design and the fact that it only requires three minutes of use per day,” she says.
If you're wondering the ones team Cosmo actually uses, check out the Shark CryoGlow. It won a Holy Grail Beauty Award in 2025 and still remains our #1 LED mask to this day. “I’ve never been so committed to a beauty device in my life," wrote assistant beauty editor Jasmine Hyman last year. "Not only does this mask use red and blue lights to improve skin texture and minimize breakouts, it has a nifty cryo feature that visibly depuffs the skin under your eyes.”
And if you’re looking for a red light device for hair growth, try HigherDOSE’s hat (another favorite of Hyman). It’s designed to help with hair thinning and shedding and couldn’t be easier to use, IMO. "Higherdose's red light hat is so sneaky and stylish, I wear it at my desk and no one is able to tell the difference between it and a typical baseball cap," Hyman says. "If you're looking for a comfortable hair growth-promoting device, this is the best option out there. I've also been able to use it for weeks at a time without needing to charge it."
How often should you do red light therapy?
Red light therapy is a bit of a time commitment. “Most devices require daily use for at least a month to see results,” says Dr. Rogers. The good news is that most treatments are fairly quick (usually 10 minutes of less), so it’s easy to incorporate into your daily skincare routine. And unlike some other trendy beauty tools and at-home treatments, it’s pretty hard to overdo it with red light therapy devices making negative side effects relatively uncommon.
How do you use red light therapy devices?
Exactly how you use your red light therapy device will depend on your specific device’s instructions but there are a few general rules to keep in mind, according to Dr. Rogers:
- For best outcomes, the device needs to be touching or nearly touching your skin to ensure the energy is being fully absorbed.
- Most devices say to use them on clean skin, but products like face moisturizer, vitamin C serum, and retinol serum are fine to apply before using your red light therapy device.
- Tinted sunscreen and some makeup products can block visible light, so it’s best to avoid applying them before a treatment.
- The heat generated by some red light therapy devices can exacerbate dry skin, so consider applying face moisturizer before and/or after to tolerate the treatment better.
What are the negative effects of red light therapy?
In general, red light therapy is pretty well-tolerated, even for sensitive skin. In fact, it can actually decrease inflammation. But if you use it too often and for too long, it could possibly cause mild irritation (like bumpy texture, redness, and stinging when you apply your skincare). To mitigate any of this, start low and slow (as is our advice for every skincare device and product). Stick with short sessions every few days until you can build up tolerance for daily treatments.
The bottom line:
Yes, red light therapy is good for your skin. And studies suggest it’s really good for your scalp and hair too. But don’t expect results from a device overnight. You'll need consistent use to get results: firmer, brighter, tighter, and less inflamed skin (and potentially hair growth if you use it on your scalp).
Meet the experts:
- Heather Rogers, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist in Seattle. Dr. Rogers is the cofounder of Modern Dermatology and the CEO of Doctor Rogers Skin Care.
- Dendy Engelman, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist and Mohs surgeon at Shafer Clinic in New York City. Dr. Engelman specializes in cosmetic dermatologist and is an expert in all types of injections, including lip filler and Botox.
Why trust Cosmopolitan?
Lauren Balsamo is the beauty director at Cosmopolitan with more than a decade of experience researching, writing, and editing skincare stories that range from the best retinol eye creams to the best lasers for acne scars. She regularly works with the industry’s top dermatologists and aestheticians to assess new skincare treatments, products, and trends.
Beth Gillette is the beauty editor at Cosmopolitan with more than seven years of experience researching, writing, and editing skincare stories.
Lauren Balsamo is the beauty director at Cosmopolitan where she writes, edits, and produces all types of beauty content—from product reviews to personal essays and trend reports. She has covered beauty for more than a decade at Cosmopolitan. Follow her on Instagram.
Beth Gillette is the beauty editor at Cosmopolitan, where she covers skincare, makeup, hair, nails, and more across digital and print. She can generally be found in bright eyeshadow furiously typing her latest feature or hemming and hawing about a new product you "have to try." Prior to Cosmopolitan, she wrote and edited beauty content as an Editor at The Everygirl for four years. Follow her on Instagram for makeup selfies and a new hair 'do every few months.
